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Default Official Denim Megapost

Denim Links
www.mynudies.com -- check out photos/forums
www.superfuture.com -- check out supertalk/denim, read stickies.
www.nudiejeans.com -- buy some nudies
www.contextclothing.com -- buy jeans (1sttimer discount 25% off)
www.revolveclothing.com -- buy some jeans

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/forumdisplay.php?f=15
http://www.styleforum.net/forumdispl...2ff5ac088&f=13

Quote:
Originally Posted by tau
Posting from SA denim thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfalfa
New thread same 1st post. The old thread reached in excess of 175 pages in under a year so it is time to get a new one started. If you don't get anything from any other part of this post, get this.

FOR APC's - IF YOU WANT THEM SLIM, MEASURE YOUR WAIST THEN ORDER THE TAGGED SIZE 3 LESS THAN YOUR ACTUAL WAIST MEASUREMENT.

Here are links to the previous three threads we've had so far:
http://forums.somethingawful.com/sho...0&pagenumber=1
http://forums.somethingawful.com/sho...#post322255503
http://archives.somethingawful.com/s...readid=1958015

Introduction
So what is denim anyways? Denim denotes a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp fibers, producing the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. The standard 2x1 pattern is the most commonly used weave pattern and makes for a very durable material that can take a beating.

History
Since this thread is mostly about jeans, let's reminisce about the days of yore when denim jeans were first made for America's working class. Levi Strauss patented a way to construct riveted denim overalls that would increase the jeans' durability and reduce production costs, ushering in a new wave of popularity in America. The original Levi's 501 cut is one of the most classic jeans known to man is to this day one of the most popular cuts in the world. The two most popular versions of this jean, the ones originating from 1947 and 1966, are slim fitting in the legs with a slightly relaxed seat. A lot of companies in Japan make excellent reproductions of these two popular cuts, and Levi's makes reproductions under their Levis Vintage Collection label.

Cut/Fit
When choosing a pair of jeans the two primary factors to consider should initially be the cut (fit) and the quality. Guys aren't as diverse as girls, but guys and girls alike all have unique body types and not everyone will look great in the same pair of jeans (except Dior of course, Dior is perfection ). Find a cut that flatters your body type. For example, tall and skinny guys look great in slim (not painted on tight!), straight-leg or even tapered jeans. Guys with a more average build should consider a more classic cut like the 501 or just a slighlty looser straight leg jean. Many recommend a bootcut style for stockier guys, though a straight leg will generally work for almost anyone. Girls are pretty similar as far as tall and skinny goes: consider slim, straight legs or even tapered skinny jeans, bootcuts and flares and such can still look good if done right but other cuts are generally more flattering for someone of this body type. Bootcuts are often recommended girls with a curvier figure. Whatever you do, make sure the jeans aren't too loose (continuously fall off without a belt) AND aren't too tight (leading to the infamous camel toe, moose knuckle, or general emo fag look) and the rest should actually be far less important. As for length, longer is always better. Straight legs and tapered jeans that are too long will often "stack" on top of your shoes so you won't have to worry about ripping them up. This look is actually somewhat of a trend at the moment, but if you don't like it or the jeans are still too long, just go to your local tailor and get them hemmed for around $5-10 or look up online how to do it yourself. One could also consider the "rise" or the length from the crotch to the waist in front or back. Mid-rise is the standard recently for most guys, though low-rise is becoming popular in some cases. Low-rise jeans for girls will continue to be popular as we tend to move towards a trend of as little material as possible for girls' clothing .

Quality
As for quality, tip #1: stop buying jeans from places like American Eagle. If you're looking for a well-fitting, cheap, high-quality pair of jeans, look no further than Levi's. They have a cut for practically every man and woman in the world plus a wide range of washed as well as unwashed styles. Levi's has been around forever, they know what they are doing and how to do it efficiently and only in recent years has the company's line been scaled down from its historic position as a leader in quality in the industry. Nevertheless even the mass-market jeans Levi's puts out today are still some of the highest quality jeans for the price. Other potential "value" brands are listed below. However, there are really only a few great quality finds under the $100 mark. Most jeans marketed under this pricepoint in recent times tend to be more about style/trends than emphasis on quality, but do not let this discourage from finding a steal, many exist if you are willing to look and there a quite a few that are not hard to find at all (Levi's STFs, Gap, Uniqlo, etc.). One of the best value higher end manufacturers of jeans is Atelier de Production et de Cr´┐Żation (APC) based out of France. They have been producing a slim, high quality raw jean since 1991 and have been consistent ever since. The over prescribed APC New Standard is a modern, slim cut made with high quality selvage denim and sold at just $140 retail. For some people that probably sounds like a lot for a single pair of jeans actually, when you could buy about 4-5 inexpensive pairs from the mall for about the same. If you want something nicer and more stylish when it comes to clothing, you're generally going to have to pay more than the standard. But also realize that a more expensive pair of jeans (and I don't just mean ANY more expensive pair, i.e. True Religion, etc) constructed with more attention to materials, detail, and quality will last a very, very long time. Everyone's different, but my mall jeans never used to last me much more than a few months to a year at most before either being almost ruined or usually completely destroyed. Higher end denim can last for years if cared for properly. There are hundreds of pictures online of worn out pairs of great jeans that have lasted anywhere from 2-10 years, albeit many quite beaten up by the end.

Washes/Fades/etc
Now to get picky about how the jeans actually look besides how they fit. Denim is initially dyed from white to either indigo or another color (i.e. black) before potentially going through several wash and/or distressing cycles to change the initial appearance of the denim. The majority of denim available today is prewashed and medium to heavy distressing is very common mainstream trend at the moment. The truth about prewashed denim is that it was actually originally introduced for two reasons. Prewashed denim is also preshrunk, this helped keep sizing more consistent with retailers since raw jeans would shrink/stretch significantly after purchase and initial wash. Secondly, retailers were now able to sell a wider range of "styles" and "looks" based on a variety of different washes. However, despite the benefits one can cite many problems with this new method. Jeans often go through 10-25 wash/distressing cycles before retail. This puts quite a bit of stress on the denim and produces the "desired effect" of aging the jeans for a certain look. But this process actually ages the denim as well, meaning the denim's lifespan is reduced for a certain look. So what's the alternative you ask? Buy your jeans raw. Raw jeans are initially much stiffer as the denim has not been artificially distressed or deformed, and they will generally stretch an inch or more in the waist as well as usually smaller amounts in other parts of the jean (although some raw jeans are sanforized). Raw jeans will generally be dyed either dark indigo or sometimes black, grey, brown, or a number of other colors. As you wear them, the indigo in the fibers begins to rub off in places of stress and the denim will begin to stretch to your movement and fit you better (usually better at least). Creases will form and produce wear patterns based on how the jeans are worn and who wears them. This process in time creates a uniquely styled pair of jeans that basically tells a story of where you've been and what you've done in them, they also tend to look really fucking cool. Many will be scared of raw denim, the return to the way jeans used to be, citing that prewashed jeans are more comfortable. It's true that it takes time getting used to a stiffer jean initially, but they quickly break in and will last much longer. Other options for those looking for something similar but possibly more comfort are one-wash models that many of these brands also put out. They are generally washed once (or similar methods wash two to three times) to pre shrink the denim and reduce the overall stiffness.

Brands
Here are a few brands we like to recommend around here, or at least some of my picks. All of these brands offer dry denim choices and many of them also offer one-wash and other pre-washed jeans as well as raw jeans (pricing ranges from low to high generally on this list). Some but not all of these brands offer jeans with selvage denim.


Recommended Value Brands
Levi's
Carhartt
Lee (non US or old US pairs)
H&M
Cheap Monday
Gap
Uniqlo

Recommended Brands
Levi's Capital E/Levi's Premium
Crate
APC
April 77
RRL (Polo/Ralph Lauren)
Ande Whall Custom Denim
Corpus
Levi's Vintage Collection (LVC)
Nudie
Earnest Sewn
Rogan
Maharishi
Julian Red
Iron Army
Helmut Lang
Topman (more info on these guys?)
Imperial
Rag & Bone
5EP
Nom de Guerre
Iron Heart
Acne
Atelier LaDurance
J. Lindeberg
Fillippa K
Marc Jacobs
Paul Smith
Dior Homme


More Niche Brands
Denim Demon
Howies
ALD
Joe McCoy
Pace
Kunna

Specialty Women's
Sling & Stone (though I think they do some guy cuts now too)
Denimbirds

Japanese
Edwin
Eternal
Denime
Kicking Mule Workshop
45rpm
Warehouse
Somet
Dope and Drakkar
John Bull Sewing Chops
Evisu

Japanese Repro Brands
Sugar Cane
Studio D'Artisan
Samurai
Pure Blue Japan
Oni
The Flat Head
Skull by an Alchemist
Fullcount

Japanese Niche Brands
Kato
United Arrows Blue Label
Lux
Chimala
Yamane
Ships Jet Blue
The Real McCoys
Dry Bones
Hollywood Ranch Market
Blueway
Full Nelson
Blue Blue
Ues
Ku
Stormy Blue
Spellbound
Burgus
Farmer


FAQ [credit 90% to the Grapist here]
1. What's this I hear about I shouldn't wash my jeans for six months? That's disgusting!
Well, here's the thing: you don't have to wait six months! But you should still be wary of how often you wash your jeans. That's because of two main reasons: indigo is naturally a poor dye, and the creases that you formed may be lost.

Indigo isn't very steadfast, especially on denim. That's why indigo rubs off of dark denim, and why every time you wash your jeans, the water turns a bit blue. Also, the jeans will lose the starch and whatever else is making them stiff, so a lot of the creases will flatten, and you may form new ones the next time you wear them, in different places. When both of those things happen often, the time it takes to get proper wear and fading will increase a lot.

The popular alternative to washing is to simply use Febreeze and air out your jeans. If you use anti-microbial Febreeze, the smells and germs will both be eliminated.

2. What is selvedge/selvage? Do I need it?
Selvage (or selvage) is actually an abbreviation for self-edge. The selvage that you see is actually the end of the bolt of denim. You'll get this when you use a narrow shuttle loom for production: you're producing less denim than on a wider loom, so you're going to want to preserve as much denim as possible. The selvage edge is very stable, and very unlikely to become unraveled. On jeans without the selvage, the edges are made from the cut bolt of denim, and are chain-stitched instead to prevent fraying.

Now, originally, these chain-stitched edges were much less stable than a selvage edge, and were more prone to unraveling. However, with modern technology, high end denim generally will not do that. But selvage is typically a good indicator of high quality. It's more expensive to produce so the people running the loom are more likely to use better, stronger cotton, and take more care in making the denim. There is nothing worse than using a process that spends extra time, material and money, and end up with it being shoddy.

There are several companies that make great selvage and non-selvage denim. The large majority of selvage denim is high quality though, so you can use it as assurance when you do see it that you are not buying trash. Also, be aware what it really looks like, many companies have recently tried to create seams that look similar to selvage but in fact are just colorful chain-stitches cleverly disguised.

3. Ok, how do I take care of my jeans then? How do I wash them, and when the fuck do I know that I need to wash them?
A lot of people baby their jeans, and they do it way too much. If you've got dry jeans, the point is to abuse them. You can't break them in if you never wear them in! Do whatever you want to do when you wear them. They're just jeans.

If you bought shrink to fit jeans, you're going to have to wash them before you ever wear them. Some people recommend a cold soak so as to not lose much indigo, but to be honest, a warm soak/wash will be best: you'll get the maximum shrinkage in the waist and inseam, and you won't lose a lot of indigo, these jeans are saturated in it.

If the creases don't set right when you're wearing the jeans, you can either use spray starch or a starch/water soak to starch up the jeans, that will stiffen them and help you get the creases.

As mentioned, the less you have to wash, the better. You'll get more contrasted fades and distressing and the jeans should last longer. You don't need to wait 6 months like many do (myself included), but every couple weeks or about once a month should be enough. Keep lots of febreeze on hand for upkeep.

4. How do I know what size to buy?
Ok, this is where it can get confusing. Different brands have different sizing rules, but here's the basics. APC, for example, has a few cuts, the most popular being the New Standard. It's a mid-rise selvage jean with a very slight taper. The general rule is to size down 2 to 3 sizes from your actual waist. These jeans stretch out a lot. All jeans stretch, but APCs really, really stretch. Experience has shown that not sizing down enough often makes for jeans that end up being far too loose. Here's my recommendation: raw jeans should take you a few minutes to button up completely when you first get them, APCs should take around 30 minutes [seriously]. Wear 'em around the house the first few days if you're uncomfotable. Most stretching is done in the first week or two or three, but typically continues to stretch through the second month, maybe even a little more over time. If you buy pre-shrunk jeans, just make sure you don't NEED a belt just to keep them up.

With most brands, it's usually recommended that you size down one or two from your normal jeans size if you're buying raw denim. All jeans stretch as you wear them, and shrink a bit when you wash them, only to stretch back out again. Since you don't wash dry jeans frequently, they're going to stretch more, and will stay that way longer. There are few exceptions, like with the brand Studio D'Artisan, but I'm sure others will point them out. If ordering online it is recommended that you find out where the waist of a particular cut is going to sit on your body. Many lower rise cuts actually sit below your true waist, often on your hips which are usually a good amount wider, take this into account. Also recall that the majority of brands sell "vanity-sized" jeans, meaning that a 29 in a brand like Diesel is actually more like a true 32" waist. APC New Standards size 28 are usually 31" around the waist before stretching.

5. Where do I buy all these jeans?!
Well, a few listed are available at your local mall (Levi's, Gap). Many you will need to find a more niche boutique or higher end department store close to you to try on/buy from. Nordstrom tends to only carry things like Sevens, True Religion, Diesel, and sometimes Evisu. Barney's has a much better selection (Acne, Crate, Iron Army, etc.). Another great option is to just buy online. It's much easier than you'd think and if you do your research on a pair and measure correctly to account for stretch, etc. you will do just fine, I've not messed up yet. Here's a list of places to consider:

http://www.activeendeavors.com
http://www.contextclothing.com
http://www.oaknyc.com
http://www.selfedge.com
http://www.factorypeople.com
http://www.denimbaronline.net
http://www.revolveclothing.com
http://www.azaleasf.com
http://www.yoox.com
http://www.barneys.com
http://www.zoovillage.com
http://www.kitchener.ch
http://www.rakuten.co.jp
http://www.blueingreensoho.com
http://www.bluebee.com
http://www.atticclothing.com
http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com
http://www.fos5.com
http://www.kitmeout.com
https://own-magazine.com/store/
http://www.cultizm.com
http://www.psyche.co.uk

Discounts/Coupons - Thanks to Fino
www.selfedge.com 25% off all Nudies with this coupon code: StyleForumNudies
www.contextclothing.com 15% off with the coupon: threads
www.peasantonline.com 11% off with coupon: sforum11
www.tobi.com 10% off with coupon: STYLEFORUM10
www.shopjake.com 20% off with coupon: styleforum


Many people in thread often list their jeans for sale in SA mart or elsewhere. Superfuture and Style Forum both have good selling/buying forums as well and there are deals and steals to be found on both.


Denim Terminology [via StyleForum, Superfuture]
3x1 vs. 2x1 weave - This refers to the number of weft threads per warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally 3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims (under 10.5 ounces/sqare yard) often use the 2x1 configuration. [from LA Guy]

Acid washing - The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible". Also called "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise. [from ringring]

Big E - "Big E" jeans refer to Levi's jeans produced before 1971, in which the red tab on the back pocket had the LEVI'S logo with a capital E. Post-1971 Levi's jeans are written "LeVI'S" on the red tab.

Broken Twill - Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. [additions from ringring]

Dual Ring-Spun - Also called RingxRing, Ring-Ring, Double Ringspun. Dual ring-spun denim is denim where both the warp and weft (filler) threads are made of ring-spun yarn. Typically only premium, more expensive denim brands use this method, as it is more labor intensive and thus more costly to produce. The result however, is a very textured denim, and is much softer than open-end or single ring-spun. You will know ringspun denim when you see it - the warp threads will be "slubby" at some points, and there will be little puffs of indigo thread. It is more obvious when looking at the weft threads (underside of the denim).

Enzyme wash - The environmentally friendly way to stone wash jeans, through the application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. No pumice stones are used. When the desired colour is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. A final rinsing and softening cycle is next, before the jeans are ready to be sold. Still frowned upon by companies such as Howies, who prefer to use rubberised "Eco" Balls to wash their jeans. [from Cake]

Left Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Now used by other denim companies such as 45rpm, Kunna, and Lee Japan. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right.

Mercerised Denim - Mercerising for denim is used to increase lustre, by passing the denim through a bath of caustic soda. It's a process carried out after the denim is woven and vastly different to the more commen method of mercerising yarn. As it significantly increases the cost and lead times of denim production, it is a relatively rare process. (not that many consumers would notice). [from ringring]

Microsanding - Sanding is basically done 3 ways: Sandblasting, (see below),
Machine sanding - just like machines that you'd use to sand a wooden table, and Handsanding aka Handbrushing - just a piece of folded fine sandpaper. All three methods are used in various ways, on the flat surfaces (tables, ironing boards), on the dummy (inflatable dummies, sometimes standing, sometimes flat, sometimes 'seated') and various templates can be used to create a 3D effect. Any sanding can be enhanced with chemical whiteners. [from ringring]

Overdye - Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees'). [from ringring]

Redline - Redline refers to a colored warp thread that is run through the selvage edge of denim fabric. This is not indicitive of the quality of the jeans so much as it is a signature of the maker, and a way for Cone Mills to differentiate between the denim they made for different companies. Lee denim had a green (or sometimes blue) warp thread on their selvage, and Wranger used yellow.

Right Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.

Ring-Spun - The method in which the yarn is produced; ring-spun cotton is spun on a ring instead of more modern method of open-ended spinning. The result is a softer denim, that is more imperfect than open-ended and has individual texture that is often desired by denim admirers.

Rope Dying - The best method of dying denim, most (should be all) upscale denim manufacturers use this method. It refers to twisting the threads of yard into a rope-like shape, then dipping the rope into a bath of indigo. It is often dipped multiple times - the more bathing of the yarn, the darker the shade.

Sandblasting - As it sounds, compressed airguns shoot sand onto jeans to create abrasion. Sometimes a 'tracer' dye is added so that the 'shooter' can more accurately judge the volume and accuracy. Very fast, but quite a clumsy way to achieve fading. [from ringring]

Sanforizing - Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not before determining what size to buy, non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans.

Selvage (Selvedge) Denim - Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. [thanks Geowu]. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1982, before Cone Mills nixed them for the more modern projectile looms, which are faster and much more efficient.

Slubby - (Denim) material which is lumpy or knobbly in texture due to its manufacturing process

Stone washing - French husband & wife team, Marithe & Francois Girbaud claim to have pioneered this technique of washing jeans in a machine with small pumice stones. Independently, the Japanese jeans company, Edwin also make this claim. The pumice stones are generally taken from southern Italy (the whitest and most expensive), Turkey and Indonesia (darkest and cheapest). Some claim that washing jeans with dark stones give the jeans a 'dirty' look, although this can be countered somewhat with extra rinsing in the laundry.

Unwashed Denim - Also called rigid, or raw denim. Typically when denim is manufactured it is sent to a laundry to undergo many washing processes to give it a worn look. Unwashed denim, however, is not washed before it is sold to the customer (although some companies will sell a one-wash jean). It is stiff, and depending on the weight can feel as though you're walking in sheet-metal. It will also be very dark and will sometimes appear black. Traditionally, all jeans were sold unwashed and it was up to the customer to break them in.

Warp Thread - Warp threads are the indigo-dyed thread. Also commonly called "surface threads," as they account for a majority of the thread you see on the surface. It is the opposite on the underside of the jeans, where the weft (filler) threads are more visible, and the warp threads are in the minority. They are woven in and out of the weft thread vertically to create the denim twill.

Weft (Filler) Thread - Weft, or filler, threads are traditionally ecru-colored, however many companies now bleach their weft threads or dye them. The weft is visible mostly on the underside of the denim, but resemble diagonal stripes on the surface. They are woven in and out of the warp threads horizontally to create the denim twill.

Whiskering - Also known as 'Cat's Whiskers'. These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee). [from ringring]


Other Recommended Sources
http://www.superfuture.com - Check this one out. The website focues on international shopping and travel and the forums are home to some of the best and most in depth discussions on fashion including a whole subforum dedicated to denim.
http://www.styleforum.net - Another fashion forum. This forum has an overall different focus than superfuture but does have some great information hidden inside as well.

THE APC SIZING GUIDELINES:
Rescues are looser than NS are looser than cures.

Sizing:

-0 for tent
-1 for loose
-2 for regular
-3 for slim
-4 for tight.

Your mileage may vary depending on how loose you wear your normal-sized jeans and where you wear them (at natural waist, low on the hips, etc.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by offensive
I'm about to post a ton of shit from Super Future.


Quote:
Maintainence: Wear, Stains, Washing, Starch, Storage

Sizing advice: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=42568

Ryu's (letgoasyoulike) monthly washing: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10995

Starching:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10433
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10753

General washing (with introductions to denim soaps): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10346

Detergent discussions: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11377

Washing and drying (spin cycle, hang dry, Samurai method): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12733

Washing and vinegar? http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6371

Washing (focussing on Paul T): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9173

Washing tips (by Denim Works denim specialists in Shibuya):
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12920

Shrinking jeans: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10367

Getting rid of that chewing gum: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11119

Getting rid of blood: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9637

Getting rid of wine stains: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12691

Tailoring in NYC: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11404

Storing your jeans:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12218
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8862

Sanding:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/sho...62#post1163462


Denim: Technical Aspects, Construction, Processing


Selvedge (also, twill and dyeing discussion):
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=771
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=2415

Half-selvedge vs selvedge: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7156

Canvas weave selvedge: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17098

Spinning process (ring & OE): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15138

Premium denim vs cheaper denim qualitative debate: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=571

All about denim weights: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=3361

Denim weight and its effect on wear: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12318

Vertical falling: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=16895

Sanforisation: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9519

Chainstitching: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10933

Chainstitch machines: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11411

Hems, baked and crumpled: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9152

Crotch rivets: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6568

Raw denim sheen:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11132
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12602

Hige: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9617

Atari: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12615

Origins of "slubby"? http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13111

Natural vs synthetic indigo: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11213

Natural vs synthetic indigo (Levi's): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7460

Japanese denim vs. Italian denim: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6618

The Amoskeag Mills: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/sho...d.php?p=253013


Making Your Own Pair of Jeans

Sourcing for denim (large and small runs):
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9800
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8211
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7897

AndeWhall (back in the good ol' days): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8159

Mizanation: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10569

tg74: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13151

newrooky: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13565
Quote:
Originally Posted by offensive
Quote:
Brands

Japanese denim with modern cuts: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14869 (Also: Lightning Denim Style Guide vol. 2 scans)

Lightning Denim Style Guide vol. 1 spreads(kudos digital_denim & chicken): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11841

Australian jeans discussion (Mjolk, Imperial, etc): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11316

1870 Levi's repro: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12051

2channel denim project: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11861

Who was the original japanese repro maker? http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12110

Repros vs Levi's (a discussion): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12103

45rpm:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6935
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13437 (Sorahiko Slim Raw)

Ande Whall:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17026 (Discussion)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17023 (To purchase)

APC:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=1698
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11303 (New Cures)

April77: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15236

BS United Oni: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11747

Cheap Monday: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15104

Chimala: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10700

Crate: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6642

Dickies and Carhartt: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11790

Dior Homme:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=57074

Dope & Drakkar: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=56649

Eternal (811): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7120

Evisu: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=2407

Evisu x Puma: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8143

Imperial jeans: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6228

Iron Army jeans: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9545

Iron Heart jeans (21 oz.): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=4099

Jean Shop: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9148

Julian Red: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15744

LVC:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14314
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13763 (Fall 2006 collection)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17677 (S/S 2007)

Levi's - The definitive 501 STF thread (thanks SLEEZY): http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12464

Levi's - Comparison between current 501 and '47 501s: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12517

Nudies: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=58792

Nudie fakes? http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11187

Prps: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7434

Pure-Blue Japan:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11410 (XX-004)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12561 (XX-005)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12857 (XX-005 with great pics)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17228 (XX-005 Black)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12344 (AI-001 vs 45rpm Jomon)

Rag & Bone: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=1028

Ralph Lauren RRL: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10907

Samurai: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9373
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12423 (S5000 range)

Sewing Chop by John Bull: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15503

Skull Jeans by An Alchemist: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=6929

sling&stones jeans: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11832

Somet: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11587

Studio D'Artisan:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7607 (SDA cuts)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8028 (SD-103, SD101, General size questions)
http://www.supertalk.superfuture.com...ad.php?t=11202 (SD-003)

Sugar Cane: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=5154
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=35968 (List of models)

UNIQLO: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=3304

Warehouse Duckdiggers: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15908

Wrangler: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10299 (13MWZ)

Yamane: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14662



Vintage

Thrifting: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12113

Nevada Mine Levi's: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=9515

Brief discussion about vintage details: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8458

Mopar_jj: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11642

Levi's (a pictorial history - courtesy digital_denim & chicken):
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12081
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12676
btw maybe these two threads could be merged? and the translations completed, more detail pics taken, etc. good resource here.

Brief vintage Lee information: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12870

Fake Lee, vintage details discussion: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13217


Lists and Lists of Lists

List of natural indigo jeans: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11687

Black denim:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=8952
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12090
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14920

Lighter toned raw denim: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=10961

Big and tall denim: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12266

Shoes:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11030
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13257

Vintage sweatshirts: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=16544
Quote:
Originally Posted by offensive
Quote:
Photos and Collections

How do jeans fit? (please contribute) http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=7091

Before & after photothread: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=3526

Samurai Denim Contest:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17503 (pics and updates from Oct 31)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15192 (original thread)

Let's see what you've got: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13362

The Flat Head 3001:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14739

Sugar Cane Okinawa & Hawaii: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12174

Samurai '66, BSU Oni, Okinawa, PBJ XX-003, BP750: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12215

BSU Oni Red: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=16287

Skull 5010XX: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15679

Ande Whall Grifter: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12729 (plus some pics of the new AW details)

APC & Nudie: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=5389

Imperial Dukes: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=12831

LVC '47 501, Fall 06 collection: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11061

LVC '37 501, 2003 collection: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13401

LVC '33 501 555 Valencia St collection:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14489

LVC 1886 'Nevada', 2005 collection: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14376

LVC '37 201, early collection: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13392

LVC '21 201, 1999 collection: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=13412




Shopping

Online: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=20620

London:
http://superfuture.com/city/supertal...ad.php?t=13343 (denim shopping)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11848 (APC, Acne)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14231 (American Classics store)

NYC:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11613 (Blue In Green)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=15551 (BiG online)

SF: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=17302 (Self Edge)

HK:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14470 (Take5 xanga and owner)
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14260 (Take5 with photos)

Singapore: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=16890

Taipei: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=14180

Buying Japanese denim online from Rakuten and similar sites:
http://supertalk.superfuture.com/showthread.php?t=11671
Quote:
Originally Posted by offensive
DENIM EDU and FAQ for the Denim Newb:

Feel free to PM me to add any info you think should be here, I'd like to keep updating this for everyone who is interested in dry denim to be able to read.

What is dry/raw/unwashed denim?
All those terms basically mean the same thing. Dry, raw, unwashed all mean denim that has been sewn together to make a jean and has not touched water. The indigo used to dye the thread is still on the jean unlike every other jean you see in the store that has been pre-washed or pre-distressed (ie. Abercrombie/Hollister) to look a certain way.


What is the F**king point?
The thing people seem to remember about dry denim is the "6 month rule," which is actually quite arbitrary. Dry denim is very stiff and when you wear it it will crease and fade according to your lifestyle ie. knee fades, crotch fades and tears, thigh fades, thigh creases, honeycombs behind the knees, whiskers etc. etc.
After a certain period of wear (ie. 6 months) you wash your jeans finally rinse the extra indigo off your jeans (not all of it mind you, but a good amount). The indigo will bleed out most out of all these creases and damage marks and less along the non-worn parts of the jean, which will create a great conrast and create a jean similar to the ones you see in stores already pre-distressed, except better. Much better, more unique, cooler and specific to you.


Really 6 months? Dude, won't that stink?
6 months is an arbitrary rule. My Nudie Even Stevens could have been washed around 4 months, but I didn't, and still haven't, and they're going on 9 months at this point. Wash them when it feels right, when you see really obvious creases and wear and all that. If you wear them once a week in 6 months you won't see shit. You wear them all week for 3 months you will probably see some great wear.
About the smell. I have never run into a smell in my dry denim, nor has anyone I know, but if you do, people say you can soak them in the bath filled with water, which will lose a bit of indigo but not a lot like in the washing machine. You can put them in the freeze or hang them outside, febreeze them etc. I have never really ran into anyone who has had this problem and I have worked in extreme heat with my dry denim and they don't smell at all.


Okay, I'm interested. What brands do I start with?
The gateway jean of dry denim is generally Nudies (www.nudiejeans.com). They have a variety of fits and casts. The most popular are probably Regular Ralf (Regular Alf) and Slim Jim. Ralf is a pretty normal fitting semi-bootcut jean while Slim Jims are what they sound like. Nudies have tons of fits for every body type.
After that people move on, perhaps to APC, (http://www.apc.fr/us/en/homme_jeans_brut.php) generally the New Standards. These are a great jean but you must size down 2-3 sizes as these jeans will stretch like a motherfucker. The general rule for dry denim is buy the pair you can BARELY button on when you try them on, as they will stretch when you wear them!! THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!

From there it's up up and up, Samurai, Imperial, Flathead, Ironheart, Pure Blue Japan, Iron Army, Studio D'Artisan, Dior Homme etc. etc.




Denim Links

www.mynudies.com -- check out photos/forums
www.superfuture.com -- check out supertalk/denim, read stickies.
www.nudiejeans.com -- buy some nudies
www.contextclothing.com -- buy jeans (1sttimer discount 25% off)
www.revolveclothing.com -- buy some jeans





Common Dry Denim Terms
Sanforized vs. Unsanforized
Sanforized basically means pre-shrunk. The denim thread is shrunk before the jean is woven. Unsanforized means the opposite. If a pair of jeans is unsanforized you will have to soak them in the bath tub before you wear them to get a correct size. A good example of this are Levis 501 Shrink To Fit you can buy for like 30 bucks. If your normal size is 30x34 you will want to buy 31x36 or 32x37, soak them in the bathtub, let them dry, and then they will shrink down to your normal size. Every brand is different in the amount they shrink.


Stacking, Hemming and Inseams, Oh my!Dry denim generally comes pretty long in the inseam (34/36/3 and a lot of people are wondering what the fuck to do with all the extra length! Well you have a few options. Hemming, which a tailor can do for you, which is generally not what most wearers like to do. Most people will stack, which means to take all the extra inseam fabric and push it down to your ankles, continuously, until the jean is soft enough and broken in enough that it all "stacks" there above your shoes. Only really practical for jeans that are slim or tapered.

Pictured - Dior 19cm Raws - (no idea how long worn, check the stacks at his ankles)





Selvege
Selvege denim is "higher quality" denim with red stitching in the inner seam down the leg. It is a jean woven continuously in a method that creates a "self edge" on every seam of the jean. This is how all jeans used to be made until new looms were invented that made jeans faster and cheaper. Now we have to pay extra for it. Selvedge can be more difficult to fade.

Pictured: Nudie - Regular Ralf Dry Selvage (washed after a year)





Japanese
Japanese denim. Very popular and high quality while not being selvege. Fades generally quite nicely and quickly and is very popular. For example, Dior dry denim Japan is much more popular than the Italian version of the same pant.

Pictured - Nudie - Slim Jim Dry Japan (2 years, washes ?)





Greycast
Greycast is very popular in Nudie jeans and has a different hue than your traditional indigo, more greyish/green. It's a personal taste thing, look at photos if you want to check out the differences online if you need help deciding.

Pictured - Nudie - Regular Ralf Dry Greycast (11 months, washed twice)





Dry Coated

Dry coated are almost like waxed jeans. I don't know what the coating is precisely but Nudie has some Thin Finn and Slim Jims in Dry Black Coated and they basically shine up like leather pants but from what I hear when you wash them the coating goes away and you have black jeans. They are pretty hip until that point though.

Pictured - Nudie - Thin Finn Dry Black Coated (Nudie booklet promo shot)





Organic

Duh, organic denim. Maybe organic dyed, it depends on the brand. Started in a similar look to Greycast, greenish tint, but has branched out since. For the "Green" conscious.

Pictured - Nudie - Even Steven Dry Organic (5 months)





Honeycombs

The accordion looking wear patterns behind your knee. Increased by wearing your jeans tight.





Whiskers

The wear around the top of your thighs by your zipper.






Soak vs Wash

Soaking a jean will result in indigo loss, but not like a wash. In a wash the detergent and the abrasions of the actual action of the wash will result in a lot of indigo loss. If you need to soak your jeans it's not that big of a deal, and don't freak out when the tub water turns blue. Soaking is generally used to remove massive amount of dirt or something without washing your pants, or to shrink your jeans.



Starching
Starching jeans is a method a lot of kids use to stiffen their jeans and increase the wear in the creases. Bad starch jobs are obvious, as most of the jean is unfaded while the honeycombs and whiskers are almost white in their abrasions. Frowned upon by most denimheads.



Rain and your jeans
Don't sweat it. Rain won't ruin your jeans. Nothing will ever really RUIN your jeans, aside from setting them aflame. Rain will cause a bit of indigo loss, but that's about it, it's nothing serious, especially on a hardcore pair of jeans. Just let them dry and you'll be fine.





Straight jacked from OT Denim Crew. But great details on how to have baller ass raw denim
Quote:
Originally Posted by offensive
Moar copy pasta from OT Denim Crew..

FIT Pics

[/FONT]Surrender's Nudie Thin Finn Dry's 1
Surrender's Nudie Thin Finn Dry's 2

Brett95GST's APCS 1
Brett95GST's APCS 2

Chizzle's APCS 1
Chizzle's ACPS 2
Chizzle's ACPS 3

Rev's Dry Bones Red-D's 1
Rev's Dry Bones Red-D's 2
Rev's Dry Bones Red-D's 3

David's Nudie Thin Finn Dry Stretch 1
David's Nudie Thin Finn Dry Stretch 2

AndrewLD's APC New Standards 1
AndrewLD's APC New Standards Size 29 Pics 1
AndrewLD's APC New Standards Size 29 Pics 2
AndrewLD's APC New Standards Size 29 Pics 3

Diablicious Slim Jim Dry Black Coated Pics 1
Diablicious Slings and Stones Daniel natural indigo selvage Pics 1
Diablicious Slings and Stones Daniel natural indigo selvage Pics 2
Dibalicious Nudie Regular Ralf Selvage Pics 1
Dibalicious Nudie Regular Ralf Selvage Pics 2
Dibalicious Slim Jim Dry Broken Twill Pics 1

SteveD's APC New Standards size 33 Pics 1
SteveD's APC New Standards size 33 Pics 2
SteveD's APC New Standards size 33 Pics 3

ihaveanevilplan's APC New Standards Size 31 Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's APC New Standards Size 31 Pics 2

ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralfs Dry Selvage Size 33 Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralfs Dry Selvage Size 33 Pics 2
ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralfs Dry Selvage Size 33 Pics 3

ihaveanevilplan's 45RPM Sorahiko Slims Size 34 Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's 45RPM Sorahiko Slims Size 34 Pics 2

ihaveanevilplan's Studio D'Artisan DP-292 (aka SD-103 blacks) Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's Studio D'Artisan DP-292 (aka SD-103 blacks) Pics 1

ihaveanevilplan's Flathead FH380 Pics 1

brolli's Samurai s5000vx 21 oz Pics 1
brolli's Samurai s5000vx 21 oz Pics 2
brolli's Samurai s5000vx 21 oz Pics 3

eecummings Thin Finn Dry Black Coated Pics 1
eecummings Thin Finn Dry Black Coated Pics 2
eecummings Thin Finn Dry Black Coated Pics 3

Yardsdale's APC New Cures Pics 1



[SIZE=5]FADE Pics

[/LEFT]
[/CENTER]
Bruised Lee's LVC '47. 1.5 years. 4-5 Washes 1
Bruised Lee's LVC '47. 1.5 years. 4-5 Washes 2

Rev's Nudie Even Steven Organic Dry 6 months wash 1
Rev's Nudie Even Steven Organic Dry 6 months wash 2

Hisma's Flathead 310 Pics 1
Hisma's Flathead 310 Pics 2

ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge 9ish months 2 soaks 1 wash Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge 9ish months 2 soaks 1 wash Pics 2
ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge 9ish months 2 soaks 1 wash Pics 3
ihaveanevilplan's Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge 9ish months 2 soaks 1 wash Pics 4

ihaveanevilplan's 45RPM Sorahiko Slims 7ish months, weekend wear 1 intial soak, 1 wash Pics 1
ihaveanevilplan's 45RPM Sorahiko Slims 7ish months, weekend wear 1 intial soak, 1 wash Pics 2
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Unread 2009-01-18, 08:43 AM   #2
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Unread 2009-01-18, 08:43 AM   #3
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*I understand there is a lot of repeated information in my initial post, over the next few days I'll be working on consolidating the information and making it bit... easier... to read.*

Also, can we please keep this civil, this is for discussion of the topic at hand, not bashing. If you'd like to bash, or discuss the 'why would you do that' factor of this post, please do so in a new thread.
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Unread 2009-01-18, 11:56 AM   #4
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fuck yes.
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Unread 2009-01-18, 11:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
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*I understand there is a lot of repeated information in my initial post, over the next few days I'll be working on consolidating the information and making it bit... easier... to read.*

Also, can we please keep this civil, this is for discussion of the topic at hand, not bashing. If you'd like to bash, or discuss the 'why would you do that' factor of this post, please do so in a new thread.
section specific stuff doesnt usually get a lot of bashing. so i think it should be good in here. AAG is where the bashing is.
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Unread 2009-01-18, 03:35 PM   #6
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Because I'm broke, I'm breaking in Levi 501 STFs and a pair of 514 Slim Straights.

No designer denim for me for a while.
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Unread 2009-01-19, 05:31 AM   #7
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admin edit - banned. fuck off nutweave. that was your last chance. no more.
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Unread 2009-01-27, 04:22 PM   #8
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I love MEK jeans
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Unread 2009-04-01, 09:20 PM   #9
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Th

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Unread 2009-04-29, 10:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkoerper View Post
The Helmut Langs are a bit worn in the right knee, but they look amazing. I kneel to work on cars/photo a lot.. I had to do an interesting repair job. I'll take some pics this weekend!

In other news, where's the best/cheapest place to pick up some APC New Cures? (28's lol)
Farinellis http://www.shopfarinellis.com/ or contextclothing.com, I got my New Standards at the latter and had a good experience but I've heard many great things about farinellis. They will all be the same price since APC is a bitch about letting retailers discount the price.

Quote:
Guys today and tomorrow I am doing a 35% off flash sale.
code is "justjeans"
if you find some jeans on farinellis you like. Although I'm nearly positive that code doesn't work on APC's.


One more thing, I've been wearing my APC NS for 4.5 months and they're starting to fade reel nice.
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Unread 2009-09-13, 11:50 PM   #11
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ive been wearing my 501stf's for about two months now and im in love with them. they did not shrink as much as i wanted them to but they arent really too big. i dont need to wear a belt to keep them up but i still think ill go down a size with my next pair. i also soaked these for a couple of hours before i wore them, i think next pair i will not soak, just wear, that way i dont lose any indigo and the whiskers and honeycombs stand out more.
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Unread 2009-09-17, 02:14 PM   #12
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levi's ftw.
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Unread 2009-09-20, 12:59 AM   #13
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also losing 20+ lbs really defeats the point of stf's lol. FML
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Unread 2010-12-12, 09:40 PM   #14
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Ok, so lemmie ask this...

Oh jean gods steer me right.

What jeans would actually fit me right?

I have *Huge* quads & hams, and a 33ish inch waist. It's been impossible for me to find a stylish jean (for out on the town, with a nice pair of shoes).

I like the styles of such by Rock & Republic. DARK colors, with back pocket designs, and a more boot cut.

Can someone PLEASE point me in the right direction? I've probably tried on 100 different pairs of jeans from everyplace you can imagine in the past week.

I've tried AX, Guess, H&M, True Religion, and several other "outlet" stores (just to try and find a good fit).

NOTHING FITS.

If the legs look right, I have like a mile of extra crotch & waist material, and if the waist is right, I cant even get my legs all the way into the pants.

HELP!
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Unread 2012-08-08, 12:45 PM   #15
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fail for bumping old post.
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Unread 2013-02-11, 07:44 PM   #16
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Just curious if anyone had a pair of light was denim and is it the same process as dark raw denim? They are Nudie jeans if you were wondering. Any other info would be great.

I've been wearing my APC SPs and Baldwins for about a year now and they have some great fades with 1 wash.
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Unread 2015-11-06, 09:36 AM   #17
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Well, the wife has been on me to dress better. I looked the other day and my 5 year old was wearing nicer close to school than I was to work. So....I guess I am done with old navy for awhile.

I tend to have trouble finding stylish jeans that fit right (big thigh guy, w/ a 34 inseam), so I have ordered a few different pairs.

The first being 501 STF. I haven't decided if I will soak them, then wear as they dry or just wear them for awhile. This is more of an experiment at this point.

The second pair is I purchased on kickstarter. The company is out of Sweden and has been around for 5 years. Below is the kickstarter and their website. After I made the purchase, they shot me a message asking about size, style, custom options, etc. I will have to drop a few lbs to get into them, but I couldn't pass them up.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...tom-made-jeans
http://www.sosoclothing.se/

The last one I am looking at (for the moment) is Brave Star http://bravestarselvage.com/ . I would likely have to go for their true straight. They have very good reviews, especially for their price point.

Being a bigger guy, what other brands would you look at? The slim/skinny/tapered jeans really don't look right. I tend to like boot cut. I don't mind relaxed, but not a big fan if they are too baggy.

Last edited by 69Mach351; 2015-11-06 at 09:38 AM..
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Unread 2015-11-06, 10:23 AM   #18
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I'm in the same boat. 34 waist. 34-36 inseam. Big thighs though. I love my STF.


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Unread 2015-11-06, 10:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I'm in the same boat. 34 waist. 34-36 inseam. Big thighs though. I love my STF.


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I tried on the athletic fit Levis yesterday (I think 541), but I think I looked more like an ice cream cone (which is why I think most people in skinny jeans look ridiculous. They are more relaxed in the ass and thighs, then taper. My fat ass needs to do a few more miles. I think that is the bottom line. It also sounds like some of these better jeans stretch quite a bit. Supposed to wear them them tight for a bit. We will see how it all works.

Last edited by 69Mach351; 2015-11-06 at 10:49 AM..
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