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Unread 2018-04-02, 08:42 PM   #26
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Knock on wood, pretty sure it's a defective spark plug wire I found by pure chance. Pulled plug on cyl 1 to check the gap (my dumbass dropped it before installing it and had to regap it), and the plug wire felt funny coming off. My roommate has a new set for his Heep sitting around so we put that wire on and voila, ran buttery smooth. If the misfire doesn't resurface, I'm gonna warranty out this set tomorrow evening and hopefully that will be that!
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Unread 2018-04-09, 02:07 PM   #27
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Still fighting a minor misfire... I've changed the plug wires with a new set, dielectric in all the plugs to ensure no arcing, all the spark plugs are properly gapped and in good condition. It ran better, but I noticed a miss still existed. It seems the issue was compound. With the spark side all sorted, it was time to look at fuel. I changed the fuel filter (I don't think this would have been the issue, but it was a good time to do it anyways, and took the new (rebuilt, technically) injectors and rail off the jeep and I found this:



Pinched oring on cyl 1. That's no good. Got a new one, put it on, lubed everything up and reassembled. From there, I started the Jeep... still a misfire. Mother fucker!

I wiggled the connectors to the injectors... there is a little bit of play. The injectors are EV-1 and the injectors are EV-1, but the injectors originated life in a Ford, and which had a different style of clip to hold the plug onto the injector. Also, there were a couple of plugs on mine that the old ass plastic snapped on while I was removing them. I bought a set of EV-1 plugs off Amazon that had a nice metal springy clip on them. They fit snugly onto the new injectors. Solid. Soldered those on last Saturday, and the misfire seems to be gone, now. Fucking finally.

I have some wire wrap coming this week that I'm going to put on the wires I soldered on for the clips. It's all just electrical tape right now. I did the best I could to make it look nice, but you can only do so much with tape. I'll post pictures when I'm finished.

I sure hope that was the final issue, because if not, I am at a loss as to where to go next to troubleshoot lol.
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Unread 2018-04-12, 08:46 AM   #28
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Small update: Cleaned up my injector wiring with some wire wrap. I hate the look of electrical tape, so this cleans up my intake side and hopefully will help keep the tape from unraveling, too.

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Unread 2018-04-27, 11:33 AM   #29
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Been working on my roommates Jeep recently... got it lifted, did the front brakes, hubs, some other misc. shit.

We took it to KS Rocks last weekend to shake it out:





It's actually my tires that it's sitting on (he has tires, but didn't have time to buy wheels and mount them). I've got to say.. holy shit, I am blown away by the Hankook MTs! They are quiet on the road and have good road mannerisms, they aired down great, had good traction on the rocks and loose ground, they were scuffing up less than the other jeeps with BFGs, etc. we were with, and they do great in mud/clean out good. For how cheap these are compared to the competition, I couldn't be happier with them.

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Unread 2018-04-27, 12:06 PM   #30
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Next, I have this fucking pile of parts that I'll be putting on over the next few weeks... Big updates to come, soon.

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Unread 2018-04-27, 12:51 PM   #31
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Love when the car parts show.
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Unread 2018-04-27, 08:05 PM   #32
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Whoops.. more parts

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Unread 2018-04-27, 08:06 PM   #33
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Next, I have this fucking pile of parts that I'll be putting on over the next few weeks... Big updates to come, soon.

Keep working that OT.

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Unread 2018-04-27, 08:07 PM   #34
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Quick, slopped together video of KS rocks last weekend:

Something went wrong. Please make sure you added the video correctly.

Video URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2943osvY7w
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Unread 2018-04-27, 09:15 PM   #35
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Keep working that OT.

I'm salary
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Unread 2018-04-30, 01:07 PM   #36
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Fucking carnage. Set out to do wheel hubs, u joints, and ball joints on my front end. One of my lug nuts was so seized on the stud, it took us hours to get off and destroyed numerous tools before I said fuck it and drilled the bitch out. After that, the hub bolts were so damn rusted it took us another several hours to get them off with lots of PB blaster and only being able to turn the bolts about 1/8th of a turn at a time using a 3' cheater. We ended up getting one hub on and said fuck it. Fuck me, what a rough day.

I'm spending the week soaking everything in PB blaster every day so this weekend, hopefully it will cooperate better.


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Unread 2018-04-30, 02:29 PM   #37
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Yep, stepping down to 3/8" on rusted lug nuts not going to work.

Since you are replacing your hubs why worry about breaking off the studs, just twist them off.

Looks like a few more new parts in your future.
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Unread 2018-04-30, 04:23 PM   #38
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Yep, stepping down to 3/8" on rusted lug nuts not going to work.

Since you are replacing your hubs why worry about breaking off the studs, just twist them off.

Looks like a few more new parts in your future.
The 1/2" drive socket completely stripped the lug nut (thanks chrysler for using thin metal caps on the lugs). I did that in the first 15 minutes. I was using an extractor after that. The extractor I have is 3/8"... only took me breaking 5 tools before I went nuclear and drilled it out, lol.
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Unread 2018-04-30, 04:41 PM   #39
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The 1/2" drive socket completely stripped the lug nut (thanks chrysler for using thin metal caps on the lugs).
They do that. Once they round you just knock them off and go to an 18mm to get the lug nut off that was under the cap.

I have a bunch of extra lug nuts for my van because once the lug nut cap gets soft I just replace the lug nut so I don't have to fight with it down the road.
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Unread 2018-05-21, 03:32 PM   #40
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big progress: got the front end lifted. Unfortunately, the front bolt on one of the rear leaf packs snapped on me while I was trying to get it loose... and it threads into the frame. So I couldn't finish the suspension up. It's at a shop right now to have that resolved... no welder, so I can't fix it myself .

This is new LCAs (super-flex Rubicon Express short arms... the front end has a johnny joint for extra articulation), 3.5" lift coils, Rubicon Express monotube shocks (made by Bilstein ).

Things on the front that aren't really pictured: quick disconnect end links, MOOG problem solver tie rod and drag link, Rough Country track bar.

Here are some quick pictures of the front:







Once I get the leaf pack bolts fixed, I'll post pictures of it finished up with the new rear leafs and shocks. After pulling off all the old parts - most of them in pretty horrible shape from 360k miles - I'm stoked to see how it drives.

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Unread 2018-05-21, 04:04 PM   #41
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Looks nice, can't wait to see what it looks like leveled out.
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Unread 2018-05-21, 04:06 PM   #42
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Looks nice, can't wait to see what it looks like leveled out.
what, you don't like dat squat, tho?
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Unread 2018-05-21, 05:14 PM   #43
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what, you don't like dat squat, tho?
Looks like it's taking a dump in your driveway.
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Unread 2018-05-21, 07:49 PM   #44
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Looks like it's taking a dump in your driveway.
if you looked at the muddy (from rain) rust residue below it after I pulled it out of the driveway, you'd think that it did just that..
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Unread 2018-05-24, 04:46 PM   #45
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Anndd she's lifted!


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Unread 2018-05-25, 11:14 AM   #46
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Looks good.

I'll keep an eye out for it in the parking lot next time I'm out that way.
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Unread 2018-05-25, 11:32 AM   #47
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Looks good.

I'll keep an eye out for it in the parking lot next time I'm out that way.
Can't miss it. It's the one with a "Butt Snorkeler" sticker on the rear window
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Unread 2018-07-06, 07:35 PM   #48
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Just got back from a ~2500 mile overlanding trip through KS, OK, NM, CO, and UT. Here's some flex on Engineer Pass... I'll try and post many more and the story from the trip up later when I'm at an actual computer.
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Unread 2018-07-06, 08:51 PM   #49
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That's awesome man. I'd love to do an overland trip one of these days.
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Unread 2018-07-06, 09:55 PM   #50
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That's awesome man. I'd love to do an overland trip one of these days.
Protip: if youre going overlanding to the desert in mid summer, make sure your cooling system is working optimally so that it doesn't require the heat on to keep engine temps in check.

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