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Unread 2017-04-05, 09:17 PM   #51
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4/5: Staged car for tank, fuel line, e-brake, and brake line removal

I've been putting off getting the car on four jack stands for many reasons. It was mainly because getting a car off of all fours is downright terrifying. In addition to this and after reading countless F-Body threads I've become aware that lifting an entire end of an F-Body is the preferred method (mainly because of the uni-body construction). An F-Body without its doors is even worse.

Some body flex can occur when lifting these cars at one corner at a time. Obviously my roll cage assists in defending against this but it's still mildly concerning. With it in first gear I lifted the front by the sub frame cross member (both front wheels at the same time) and placed my 2 3 ton jack stands in place on the second notch (so probably 15 inches in the air) under the lower control arms. In order to ensure they were seated correctly I took a hammer to the base to ensure all four feet were flush with the concrete. I then rocked each corner to ensure it wasn't going anywhere and tossed an old 9 inch wheel below the motor and pulled out the floor jack.

Next, I grabbed a 1 inch thick piece of maple and placed it between the differential and floor jack, and raised the rear. I then placed wheel/tire ramps below each rear tire instead of jack stands. Threw another wheel below the rear shock towers and rocked the whole car in every direction making sure it wasn't going anywhere.

Anyway, I picked up a siphon pump and two wheel ramps from Harbor Freight. There was roughly 19 gallons of 95 octane in the old tank. Luckily my Jeep was on a half tank so I fueled it up and then took the remainer to my lawn mower, my girlfriends car and my neighbors. The Harbor Freight siphon pump I picked up is a great deal; worked like a champ ($6.49).









My plan for this weekend is to remove the dash, tank, lines, truck carpet, rear bumper, lights, heater core, steering column and some misc. crap.

Car gets shipped out on Tuesday.
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Unread 2017-04-06, 12:52 PM   #52
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I love the updates. Keep em coming. Did I miss what rear end is in the car currently? I know you planned on LS/T56 and wanted to keep the ladder bar rear suspension, but does it have a 9"?
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Unread 2017-04-06, 02:32 PM   #53
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I love the updates. Keep em coming. Did I miss what rear end is in the car currently? I know you planned on LS/T56 and wanted to keep the ladder bar rear suspension, but does it have a 9"?
I know it's a Strange 9 inch...with what I believe to be a 31 spline or 29? I do recall that it's rated to withstand 1,100 ft. lbs. or however that relates to their spline makeup.
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Unread 2017-04-06, 02:41 PM   #54
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I finally got an estimate of what it's going to cost to have it tossed on a rotisserie, blasted, SPI epoxied and then painted. Budget depending, I was hoping to have the undercarriage, interior pans, and interior trunk each/all blasted/SPI/and painted.

As it turns out...just having it tossed on the rotisserie and having the undercarriage blasted/SPI and painted is going to cost ~$2,000. So, while I may be able to afford the interior pans and trunk as well...the budget is a little too tight for comfort at the moment.

Undercarriage is definitely going to happen. Still waiting on my builder to give his final quote for the sub frame instal/sub frame connectors and t56 tunnel quote. After I get that I'll be able to assess if I can afford the interior pans and trunk massage as well.

Getting really excited now!
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Unread 2017-04-06, 02:49 PM   #55
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I finally got an estimate of what it's going to cost to have it tossed on a rotisserie, blasted, SPI epoxied and then painted. Budget depending, I was hoping to have the undercarriage, interior pans, and interior trunk each/all blasted/SPI/and painted.

As it turns out...just having it tossed on the rotisserie and having the undercarriage blasted/SPI and painted is going to cost ~$2,000. So, while I may be able to afford the interior pans and trunk as well...the budget is a little too tight for comfort at the moment.

Undercarriage is definitely going to happen. Still waiting on my builder to give his final quote for the sub frame instal/sub frame connectors and t56 tunnel quote. After I get that I'll be able to assess if I can afford the interior pans and trunk massage as well.

Getting really excited now!
Still cheaper to do it while it's up in the air - it likely will never be up in the air again on a rotisserie - IMO - the time and dedication you have into it, I'd be selling my ass to put more budget $$$ into this to make it happen the right way. Not busting your balls, but, this is a project I'm following also, great memories in that priceless mother fucker right there man. If it were me, I'd seriously be eating beenie weenies and selling extra shit to make it so.

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Unread 2017-04-06, 10:26 PM   #56
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4/6: Removed rear bumper, tail light housings, nitrous line, loosened brake lines and fuel line (just waiting on fuel tank drop to remove brake and fuel lines completely).



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Unread 2017-04-06, 11:23 PM   #57
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Awesome build!
What a kickass TA, with an incredible story.
Thank you for sharing
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Unread 2017-04-07, 04:25 PM   #58
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Good progress
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Unread 2017-04-09, 12:36 AM   #59
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4/8: Dropped gas tank, all fuel lines, brake lines, all wiring of 'back-half',
trunk carpet, and rear plate holder -


Upon dropping the tank and pulling the trunk carpet I found one small rust hole in the trunk pan. I'm very disappointed. I didn't expect to find anything warranting metal repair. I have a few options. Option 1 would be to just patch it with option two being replacing the entire pan.

I flooded the trunk pan with brake cleaner to loosen up as much of the carpet glue and trunk tar as I could in preparation of what direction I decide to take tomorrow. It's difficult to explain where the hole is but based on all aftermarket replacement pans I've seen for sale...I don't think those pans even 'cover' this section of the trunk where the hole resides. I may have to have this hole patched in addition to biting the bullet and having the whole trunk pan replaced.

I'll pick up a few grinder wheels tomorrow and dig in to it after I remove the dashboard.

I took a ton of photos of the underside to send over to my sand blaster/metal repair/paint guy to give him an idea of what we're working with here but they are all close ups and not really worth posting on here/a forum. Here are a few of the tank, lines, trunk and this damn rust hole.











The trunk pan seems super thin. The bottom of it (looking at it from the bottom) is rust free. Whatever rot developed originally originated from within; not from salt/water/exposure to the elements; old age is what did that pan in.

I foresee the grinder wheel only worsening the hole(s). But, if the grinder does/did...sandblasting sure as well will too.

Overall I can't be too upset. I spent a good 30 mins picking and poking under that car today. No other MAJOR concerns looking forward to the blast.
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Unread 2017-04-09, 09:51 PM   #60
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4/9: Removed Dash and all wiring -

Today a buddy of mine and I removed the Dashboard and all wiring from the car. There is not a single wire/cable in that car any longer. Other than a few clips and retaining cable braces it's as stripped as I can take it prior to handing it over.

I may remove the rear disk brake disks prior to handing it over depending on how that may or may not complicate the rear wheel spacing in the mini tubs. I'd also like to remove the rear wheel spoilers too.

We worked for 7 hours straight making sure to disconnect every wire from its source in the dash; opting not to hack and cut wires like cavemen - as these tear downs usually end up turning in to. It required a lot of patience and attention to detail. Taking dashboards out from this generation requires going based on 'feel'. You push, pull, tap and listen closely...listening to when those old clamps are either about to break, snap or properly break loose.

We didn't break a single tab, clip, clamp or anything. Not a single bolt or nut as been misplaced or unidentified. I'm extremely proud of this.

I didn't have enough time today to dig in to the trunk pan although I wanted to. I simply ran out of day light. Weather was perfect. Couldn't have been happier with today's teardown.

Thank you for following.































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Unread 2017-04-11, 10:25 AM   #61
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4/10: Prepping for pick up

Upon wire wheeling and poking around under the car I've realized that there are two areas of some concern 1). The inner lining of the rear tail panel and 2). Two sections of the trunk pan.

Trunk Pan Concern: Obtaining a new trunk pan is roughly $350 plus shipping...so approximately $500 shipped. Installation is a rather extravagant adventure. I'd guess an 8 hour job. I'm going to rely on my builder to assess whether a full replacement is in order or a methodical patch job will suffice. We'll be relying on Walnut or glass bead media in this section post repair.

Tail panel lining Concern: The lining has to be replaced. No way around it. Unfortunately the linings are not reproduced. This will have to be fabricated from scratch. I'm planning on a 6 hour job. The old spot welds need to be drilled out prior to removal. Re installation is a challenging order.

I've given my builder free rein to point out any other metal repair that he deems necessary prior to the media blasting.

At this point it's possible we'll go full out on replacing the trunk pan as well.

There probably won't be any updates until I'm standing under the car on the lift with my builder on the 18th or the weekend of the 22nd.

I've taken it as far as I can, have researched and assessed everything I want done within my knowledge level. The experts are taking her from here.
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Unread 2017-04-11, 10:31 AM   #62
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Are you reusing the factory wiring?
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Unread 2017-04-11, 10:46 AM   #63
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Are you reusing the factory wiring?
Kind of. To an extent I guess. For example I'm keeping all of the factory gauges (plus adding exhaust temp, fuel pressure, oil pressure, trans temp, vacuum pressure) so those will be reused. I'm going to reroute the defrost, heater, tail light, directionals, windows, door locks all myself.

I'll reuse the speakers and head unit but I'll be putting the head unit in the glove box. The front ash tray is going away to make room for the extra gauges everywhere. I adore that dash and the look of stock gauges in old muscle cars. There's just something inherently cheesy about a big old white faced autometer tac imo. Carbonfiber bullshit and stainless steel trim is horrible looking in everything. I wouldn't dare put that crap in this car. Old school is old school. I think keeping that 'feel' will only make it better.

I'll reuse the door busers and interior dome light. I'll reuse the headlamp harness.

Mapping everything out to an LS7 will be a fucking nightmare. I know it.
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Unread 2017-04-11, 10:54 AM   #64
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Kind of. To an extent I guess. For example I'm keeping all of the factory gauges (plus adding exhaust temp, fuel pressure, oil pressure, trans temp, vacuum temp) so those will be reused. I'm going to reroute the defrost, heater, tail light, directionals, windows, door locks all myself.

I'll reuse the speakers and head unit but I'll be putting the head unit in the glove box. The front ash tray is going away to make room for the extra gauges everywhere. I adore that dash and the look of stock gauges in old muscle cars. There's just something inherently cheesy about a big old white faced autometer tac imo. Carbonfiber bullshit and stainless steel trim is horrible looking in everything. I wouldn't dare put that crap in this car. Old school is old school. I think keeping that 'feel' will only make it better.

I'll reuse the door busers and interior dome light. I'll reuse the headlamp harness.

Mapping by everything out to an LS7 will be a fucking nightmare. I know it.
The LS7 harness will/should be standalone and won't intermingle with the chassis wiring beyond one 12V wire to tell the PCM when the car is in run and start, usually your factory coil wire.

The fun part for you will be to run extra sending units, as all the sending units from the LS7 need to communicate with the PCM.

I went with the black alloy Dakota Digital VHX will white backlighting, mostly because they look really clean and aren't over the top.

Also, I was able to run their BIM-01-2 module for all gauge data. It just plugs into OBD-2 and gets it's data that way, so I didn't have to add sending units. But, with the auto it was a little more complicated as my car had to see VSS at the PCM, so I'd have to buy an expensive converter to do a mechanical cable to the speedo and a VSS to the PCM had I kept my stock gauges.
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Unread 2017-04-14, 08:45 AM   #65
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4/11 to 4/14: The waiting game -

Nothing too significant to report; well nothing very positive at least.

- I removed the rear wheel spoilers, the rear Strange Disk Brake calipers and hardline.
- I wire wheeled spots of the rear trunk pan that would require patch work if I decide to go that route.
- I wire wheeled portions of the under trunk area and under (inside) tail section area as well.

Now I'm not a body guy but from what I can see and from what the trail of rust is telling me is that there are truly only three portions that would warrant patch work on the entire underside of that car (all surrounding the trunk pan to tail section panel seam). From what I've read and researched from the help of a few fellow F-Body guys, and articles I've come across is that replacing the trunk pan, rear cross support and re-installing the tail panel is an extensive process yet common place for all 2nd gens.

The silver lining in my case is that "if the tail panel is rusted...this ALWAYS warrants cross member replacement". My tail panel however is in prefect condition (at least on the outside it is). Even the interior lining to the bottom portion of the tail panel is in perfect condition.

I'm not opposed to paying for a complete new pan and cross member support/section if this is in fact needed but again I'm leaving that to the professionals before I start drilling out spot welds etc. I do however think I may be able to get away with professional grade patch work/repair.

The other thing, and quite disappointing actually is that my Detroit Speed Engineering hydroformed powder coated front sub frame is delayed...and by a lot. The lead time was originally 6-8 weeks. It says this on the website. I've called one time each week in week 3, 4, 5, and now 6. I've been told time and time again that everything was on schedule.

So, yesterday I called D.S.E. (week 6) to check up on the status of the frame because my builder wants the car 1 week before the frame arrives for metal repair work and the t56 tunnel (my builder WAS going to pick up the car from my house on the 18th). The 18th would have been exactly 7 weeks since I placed the order...essentially giving my builder one week plus 3 days shipping time.

Anyway, yesterday a D.S.E. representative told me that the frame rails...the actual freaking frame rails are not even MADE yet. I'm not talking about not having been shipped to D.S.E. or just not powder coated...but they are not even MADE yet (D.S.E. outsources them).

He goes on to tell me that they are planning on the 28th now. Then they get sent to D.S.E. for assembly with the cross member support. Then it gets powder coated. Then suspension, steering and final assembly gets completed. Then it ships. So it turns out that they are planning on mid or late MAY now PLUS SHIPPING!

So 6-8 weeks of lead time means nothing I guess. More like 12 to 13 weeks. I am not happy.
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Unread 2017-04-25, 10:34 AM   #66
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4/25: Waiting and delay -

As I've eluded to previously; my D.S.E. frame is delayed. The hydro formed frame rails are on back order and are not scheduled to arrive until the 28th. From there they get welded to the cross member and powder coated. Then, suspension and steering get installed. Then it ships.

I was told the third to fourth week in May. Car is completely gutted. Won't be touching it until the car gets sent out in the enclosed trailer.

I ordered it on March 3rd. Claimed 6-8 weeks of lead time. Third week in May would be 12 weeks : (
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Unread 2017-04-25, 10:46 AM   #67
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Any willingness on their part to expedite shipping to make up for part of the delay? I mean, I'm sure they probably cover themselves quite well and make statements like they can take as long as they want, but I'd still be pushing for something to make this right.
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Unread 2017-04-25, 01:16 PM   #68
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Any willingness on their part to expedite shipping to make up for part of the delay? I mean, I'm sure they probably cover themselves quite well and make statements like they can take as long as they want, but I'd still be pushing for something to make this right.
It ships freight and they are out of N.C. They claim shipping to NY is no more than 3 days. I already paid for it AND the shipping charge. I don't think I have much ground to stand on. It would be nice if they sent a t-shirt or hat or something for the delay. Give me SOMETHING.

Extending the timeline by a third is not a minor inconvenience. Especially for my builder who now has to re-schedule his queue of project cars as well.
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Unread 2017-04-25, 01:50 PM   #69
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It ships freight and they are out of N.C. They claim shipping to NY is no more than 3 days. I already paid for it AND the shipping charge. I don't think I have much ground to stand on. It would be nice if they sent a t-shirt or hat or something for the delay. Give me SOMETHING.

Extending the timeline by a third is not a minor inconvenience. Especially for my builder who now has to re-schedule his queue of project cars as well.
I would give them a call, explain the situation with your builder and ask, point blank, what they can do for you to make it right.

They may tell you to piss off, or they may refund some of your money. You never know until you try.
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Unread 2017-04-25, 01:59 PM   #70
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I would give them a call, explain the situation with your builder and ask, point blank, what they can do for you to make it right.

They may tell you to piss off, or they may refund some of your money. You never know until you try.
I mean, I know what you mean but I've been calling each Monday at 1:00pm for the past 4 weeks just checking on the status. It's really not D.S.E.s fault because they outsource the framerails...which is causing the delay. I've learned that there are 3 or 4 frames ahead of me that are also delayed. I'm trying to remain as nice as possible. They've been more than helpful in providing me backspacing and offset measurements, camber settings, spring ratios, deck height, header clearance issues, fuel routing scenarios. I'm sure they recognize my number by now.

I'll only push them if I get another delay that stretches it out in to June. I really hope that doesn't happen though. Car has to go to sand blasting and paint by mid June. Absolutely has to go get blasted in mid June or I have to find another shop to take it.
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Unread 2017-05-11, 07:41 AM   #71
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5/9: Update -

I just got off the phone with D.S.E.. My frame is officially on the weld schedule for the 15th of May. After it gets welded the frame gets sent out for powdercoat. Then D.S.E. completes assembly, final assembly and ships it.

I was told that it would be in the mail between 2 to 2.5 weeks from today.

My plan now is to wait until Tuesday of next week to call D.S.E. and confirm it's been welded up and see where we stand with their timeline. If on that call they say we're still on the 2 to 2.5 week timeline (what would be 1 to 1.5 weeks at that point) I'll call my builder and organize shipping of the car for the 23rd of May.
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Unread 2017-05-29, 07:48 PM   #72
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5/29: Memorial Day splurge -

This morning I decided to pull the trigger on Wilwood's Firewall Pedal Mount Kit and their Adjustable Triple Master Cylinder Kit.

I also finally got the factory brake booster off of the firewall and the entire pedal assembly off:







Pedal Assembly:
http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalL...Clutch%20Pedal

Master Cylinder Assembly Plate (3 Cylinder Model):
http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNo...px?q=250-13167

Frame is arriving on the 2nd of June. Car gets picked up on the 6th.
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Unread 2017-06-04, 09:28 PM   #73
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6/3: Getting a bit antsy I guess -

I haven't washed the thing in well over two years so with it departing on Tuesday I decided to wash it, or at least wash what's left of it.

My rationale was that the builder probably wound't appreciate working on a car with 2 years of dust, spiderwebs and metal shavings everywhere. Washed, clay'd, wax, polished up:





I also made a final list of everything I want/need done including a few odds and ends (like eliminating the emergency brake cable bracket/guide lines, adding rear brake hard line mounts on the rear-axle, areas where I want ONLY walnut blasted instead of sand/glass, welding up the previous bolt holes from the old mounting locations of the fuel lines, brake lines, rear suspension, exhaust, etc., and grinding everything smooth before blasting.

Can't wait until Tuesday when it finally gets out of here and then Thursday or Wednesday whenever I get to see that frame in person.
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Unread 2017-06-07, 02:40 PM   #74
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Haven't been on KCSR let alone posted in a long time but had to sign in to comment on how nice it is to see this transformation. Thanks for keeping us abreast of the changes.
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Unread 2017-07-20, 09:34 PM   #75
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7/20: Take care of her

Going to skip over a lot of posts from other forums because they were basically just me posting updates, delays and acquiring more parts.

Anyway, the car finally left on 7/19:

I'll hopefully post some more photos once it gets mocked up on the rotisserie.

Tear down should start on Wednesday/Thursday with it making its way to sandblast/glassblast next weekend.

New to me 1976 Front Bumper:








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