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Unread 2014-10-28, 11:29 AM   #1
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Default First 75 Gallon Tank

Okay so little background I only just started this hobby in August 2014. I've had 3 previous tanks.

5 Gallon Fluval Chi Lightly planted with corkscrew val, anacharis, moss ball, bamboo, and java moss.- Betta tank
15 Gallon lightly planted with anubias, Italian val, corkscrew val, java moss, cabomba, cryptes, duckweed, anacharis, and a lily. - 6 Peppered Cories, 5 Kuhli Loaches, 3 otos, and a couple of snails. I also have a 2.5in rainbow shark in this tank but it will be going into the 75 gallon.
16 Gallon bow front dirted lightly planted with bamboo, cryptes, java moss, water sprite, duckweed, italian val, and corkscrew val. - 6 Guppies, 1 danio(his brothers/sisters died early), and an endler. This tank has a leopard bushfish, bristlenose, and 1 german blue ram I plan on moving to the new tank.

So my first 75 Gallon dirted. So here's my plan if there's any tips or compatibility issues please let me know.
Dimensions LxWxH - 48x18x20
Substrate - Miracle Grow organic mixed with peat moss capped over with black diamond blasting sand.
Lighting - 1x Lowe's 40w T12 plant/aquarium light 48"
1x 90watt led 6500k light (http://www.aquatraders.com/ProductDe...uctCode=56367P)
There's about 17" between substrate and light.
Filter - Hydro Sponge V Filter (possibly add a second one and have them on opposite ends of the tank attached to powerheads? input please)
Heater - 2x 200 watt heaters on opposite sides.
CO2 - Unsure whether or not i'm going to add one since i have an old paintball co2 canister laying around i could possibly do something diy. Let me know if you would recommend it for the plants i'll have.

Stocking
4 German Blue Rams - 2 pairs
2 Peacock gundgeon - 1 pair
1 Rainbow shark
1 Leopard bushfish
16 Cardinal Tetra - any input on a good starting number.
6 sterbai cory - do i need more?
1 Bristlenose pleco
What else could I add that would be a great tank mate? I wanted to add some sort of live bearer pair to produce some extra snacks for the bushfish + the normal fish food it would already be eating. However I read that the parameters that the german blue ram's ( center piece fish) parameters weren't compatible with livebearers
Since there's peat moss in the substrate I know my water will be a little softer and I wanted to get my ph between 6.0-6.5.

Plants
1 Anubias Nana
1 Anubias Barteri
1 Anubias lanceolata
2 Amazon swords argentinensis
1 Amazon sword ozelot green
1 Amazon sword fancy twist
2 Long java fern
5 stems of ludwigia repens
30 stems of hygro angustifolia
3 narrow leaf elodea
2 stems water wisteria
5 stems alternathera reineckii
20 stems water pennywort
5 stems of green temple plant
5 stems of ambulia
5 stems of green cabomba
2 stems of ammania gracilis
30-40 dwarf sag
20 stems anacharis
10 vals
20 red/red ludwigia
1 banana plant
10 rotala vietnam
some java moss
duckweed
possibly xmas moss, madacascar lace leaf plant, or dwarf hairgrass depending on whether or not i need to add co2

aquascape so far I have the 2 ends of the tank made up in one corner there's a medium size piece of driftwood overhanging some pvc pipe caves and on the other end a smaller piece of wood and 2 clay pots for the rams. (hoping peacocks choose the pvc and the rams take the clay pots but you never know haha) I have no idea what i'm going to do towards center of tank. should i leave it open for fishes to swim around or put a nice piece of rock or driftwood? I also need to find a place to put a flat stone for the rams.

so what does everyone think? I know i'm probably leaving out some missing information please ask and i'll post it. I'm hoping to have the water temp around 80-84F. ALSO WILL BE ADDING PICS SOON. THE ONLY PLANTS IN ARE THE SWARF SAGS. Still waiting for the rest to come in by Wednesday or Thursday.
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Unread 2014-10-28, 04:40 PM   #2
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in for pics
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Unread 2014-10-29, 09:42 AM   #3
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With only dwarf sags in. Mail is taking tooooo long. Any suggestions with what I should do with the hardscape?
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Unread 2014-10-29, 04:33 PM   #4
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when you said planted tank this is more of what i thought yo were talking about lol



like this!!

Something went wrong. Please make sure you added the video correctly.

Video URL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=?v=X84cBq9L8II
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Unread 2014-10-29, 10:06 PM   #5
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I'm hoping to get that. Waiting on the remaining 160-180 plants... so yeah I think it'll fill up pretty well.
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Unread 2014-10-29, 10:14 PM   #6
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FYi you can make a simple DIY CO2 reactor/mini factory with a 2 liter bottle, airline tubing yeast and sugar.

Also you running open top or closed w glass?
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Unread 2014-10-30, 08:51 AM   #7
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Thank you for the advice, unfortunately I've already tried this method with the diy co2 had very nice results for about 1-2 weeks the bubbles stopped. Also during this period my recipe blew up getting sugar water all over... I'm almost certain it was user error but I can't risk anymore ants . Tracking on plants say they just arrived at stillwell postal office . Looks like I'm going to be planting tonite
Also, closed top with glass lids, is this ideal?
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Unread 2014-10-30, 07:24 PM   #8
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Was thinking about adding this almond leaf over the bottom as a way to soften the water. anyone had any experience with it? (http://www.ebay.com/itm/100g-Grade-A...14246813&rt=nc)
I don't mind the tannins it's going to leach since i already have peat moss in my substrate and driftwood.
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Unread 2014-10-31, 09:21 AM   #9
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50 plants came in still waiting on the 80-100 others! Sorry the bottom half being murky. Some dirt got kicked up while planting. I'll try to snap some more pics when it settles
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Unread 2014-10-31, 07:35 PM   #10
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New beam works led light came in
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Unread 2014-11-03, 05:20 PM   #11
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looks good!
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Unread 2014-11-03, 05:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Froiwok View Post

New beam works led light came in
Looking nice, also props to buying an oceanic brand tank vs all glass/ perfecto brand.

Much thicker glass, better bracing and instead of just coating each seam like the before mentioned cheap aquarium companies (perfecto and all glass) Oceanic actually injects silicone between each angle cut pane.

Only gripe is that they have that large glass center brace, and florescent tubes output the most light out of the middle of the the bulb, meaning the middle of a open top euro braced vs center braced tank would be the most ideal spot to place high light demanding plants/ coral


Sucks to hear about the explosion of your DIY CO2 reactor, CO2 can make a big difference.

Also I would ditch your glass tops or see if you can get some starfire glass ones cut/ made for you. Regular glass tops really block out alot of PAR (photosynthetically active radiation)
In your case, I am guessing you are using standard T-12's 40 watt bulbs, which wont put out much in the first place.
Get a dual 54watt T-5 setup, I know that its basically only 14 watts more than a standard 40watt 48inch T12 but they produce alot more lumens/ PAR per watt.

I have never had a planted tank or even a freshwater tank for that matter, but have been keeping reef tanks for 15 years/ since I was 12.

EDIT, also whats with the terra cotta pot? plan on breeding fish? discus?
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Unread 2014-11-03, 09:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xXSTi-lynXx View Post
Looking nice, also props to buying an oceanic brand tank vs all glass/ perfecto brand.

Much thicker glass, better bracing and instead of just coating each seam like the before mentioned cheap aquarium companies (perfecto and all glass) Oceanic actually injects silicone between each angle cut pane.

Only gripe is that they have that large glass center brace, and florescent tubes output the most light out of the middle of the the bulb, meaning the middle of a open top euro braced vs center braced tank would be the most ideal spot to place high light demanding plants/ coral


Sucks to hear about the explosion of your DIY CO2 reactor, CO2 can make a big difference.

Also I would ditch your glass tops or see if you can get some starfire glass ones cut/ made for you. Regular glass tops really block out alot of PAR (photosynthetically active radiation)
In your case, I am guessing you are using standard T-12's 40 watt bulbs, which wont put out much in the first place.
Get a dual 54watt T-5 setup, I know that its basically only 14 watts more than a standard 40watt 48inch T12 but they produce alot more lumens/ PAR per watt.

I have never had a planted tank or even a freshwater tank for that matter, but have been keeping reef tanks for 15 years/ since I was 12.

EDIT, also whats with the terra cotta pot? plan on breeding fish? discus?
Wow I had no idea about the oceanic thing, actually I had no idea what kind of brand it was. I might do a co2 with this old paintball canister I have. Seems like it'd be cleaner.

I'm going to look up that starfire glass, hopefully it'll fit in my budget. I figured the glass tops were reducing the plant light but have been happy about not having to top off my tank. I was hoping on getting a finnex planted+, really want those red and blue leds. The fluorescent light is just a temp one.

Terra cotta? I want to breed the peacock gundgeons, blue rams, cories, endler livebearers, and tetras. I don't expect a high survival rate but was hoping for maybe a couple new babies to survive every now and then.
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Unread 2014-11-04, 11:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Froiwok View Post
Wow I had no idea about the oceanic thing, actually I had no idea what kind of brand it was. I might do a co2 with this old paintball canister I have. Seems like it'd be cleaner.

I'm going to look up that starfire glass, hopefully it'll fit in my budget. I figured the glass tops were reducing the plant light but have been happy about not having to top off my tank. I was hoping on getting a finnex planted+, really want those red and blue leds. The fluorescent light is just a temp one.

Terra cotta? I want to breed the peacock gundgeons, blue rams, cories, endler livebearers, and tetras. I don't expect a high survival rate but was hoping for maybe a couple new babies to survive every now and then.
Yep, when it comes to quality oceanic is by far the best big brand tank. Next time your in a pet store, take a look at an All-glass or perfecto brand 75 gal and compare the glass thickness to yours.

yeah I was referring to the flower pot when I said terra cotta. I figured it was to be used for breeding some type of fish.

Starfire is expensive, if the price you are quoted is over 150, I would just go topless and get a reliable auto top off unit like a TUNZE osmolator to combat evaporation.
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Unread 2014-11-24, 03:54 PM   #15
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Welcome to the planted tank world. I've been doing planted tanks for almost 3 years now. Started with low tech tanks and moved on from there.

Here are my current tanks

55g low tech anubias tank, after a trim last week. I gave away about a 5 gallon bucket full of trimmings lol



29g high tech, 2 finnex planted+ fixtures, pressurized co2, self made liquid fertilizer (dealing with green dust algae at the moment, tank is a bit of a mess but I'm winning the fight currently)



8.7g dirt tank, with finnex fugeray ultra slim r ( re did this tank 2 months ago)


10g dirt tank


If you have not already, you need to join Plantedtank.net, lots of great deals on equipment, plants and various other items you need. Plus lots of information on keeping tanks and plants.

On the fish you plan to stock and breed, you have several fish that when they spawn, will become very territorial and aggressive towards other fish. I would be careful here. Indian almond leaves are great for your tank and fish, but will stain the water from the tannins released when the leaves break down.

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Unread 2014-11-24, 09:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Froiwok View Post
Okay so little background I only just started this hobby in August 2014. I've had 3 previous tanks.

5 Gallon Fluval Chi Lightly planted with corkscrew val, anacharis, moss ball, bamboo, and java moss.- Betta tank
15 Gallon lightly planted with anubias, Italian val, corkscrew val, java moss, cabomba, cryptes, duckweed, anacharis, and a lily. - 6 Peppered Cories, 5 Kuhli Loaches, 3 otos, and a couple of snails. I also have a 2.5in rainbow shark in this tank but it will be going into the 75 gallon.
16 Gallon bow front dirted lightly planted with bamboo, cryptes, java moss, water sprite, duckweed, italian val, and corkscrew val. - 6 Guppies, 1 danio(his brothers/sisters died early), and an endler. This tank has a leopard bushfish, bristlenose, and 1 german blue ram I plan on moving to the new tank.

So my first 75 Gallon dirted. So here's my plan if there's any tips or compatibility issues please let me know.
Dimensions LxWxH - 48x18x20
Substrate - Miracle Grow organic mixed with peat moss capped over with black diamond blasting sand.
Lighting - 1x Lowe's 40w T12 plant/aquarium light 48"
1x 90watt led 6500k light (http://www.aquatraders.com/ProductDe...uctCode=56367P)
There's about 17" between substrate and light.
Filter - Hydro Sponge V Filter (possibly add a second one and have them on opposite ends of the tank attached to powerheads? input please)
Heater - 2x 200 watt heaters on opposite sides.
CO2 - Unsure whether or not i'm going to add one since i have an old paintball co2 canister laying around i could possibly do something diy. Let me know if you would recommend it for the plants i'll have.

Stocking
4 German Blue Rams - 2 pairs
2 Peacock gundgeon - 1 pair
1 Rainbow shark
1 Leopard bushfish
16 Cardinal Tetra - any input on a good starting number.
6 sterbai cory - do i need more?
1 Bristlenose pleco
What else could I add that would be a great tank mate? I wanted to add some sort of live bearer pair to produce some extra snacks for the bushfish + the normal fish food it would already be eating. However I read that the parameters that the german blue ram's ( center piece fish) parameters weren't compatible with livebearers
Since there's peat moss in the substrate I know my water will be a little softer and I wanted to get my ph between 6.0-6.5.

Plants
1 Anubias Nana (needs shade)
1 Anubias Barteri (needs shade)
1 Anubias lanceolata
2 Amazon swords argentinensis
1 Amazon sword ozelot green (lots of open space)
1 Amazon sword fancy twist
2 Long java fern
5 stems of ludwigia repens
30 stems of hygro angustifolia
3 narrow leaf elodea
2 stems water wisteria (will take over the tank if not trimmed)
5 stems alternathera reineckii (plant and don't move, takes 3 month to establish good roots and start growing)
20 stems water pennywort
5 stems of green temple plant (hygro temple will get tall and bushy, great to plant over anubias)
5 stems of ambulia
5 stems of green cabomba
2 stems of ammania gracilis
30-40 dwarf sag
20 stems anacharis
10 vals (will melt if your water conditions fluctuate, wait to plant until you are established)
20 red/red ludwigia (my favorite, nice red/orange under high light)
1 banana plant
10 rotala vietnam
some java moss
duckweed (don't lol)
possibly xmas moss, madacascar lace leaf plant, or dwarf hairgrass depending on whether or not i need to add co2

aquascape so far I have the 2 ends of the tank made up in one corner there's a medium size piece of driftwood overhanging some pvc pipe caves and on the other end a smaller piece of wood and 2 clay pots for the rams. (hoping peacocks choose the pvc and the rams take the clay pots but you never know haha) I have no idea what i'm going to do towards center of tank. should i leave it open for fishes to swim around or put a nice piece of rock or driftwood? I also need to find a place to put a flat stone for the rams.

so what does everyone think? I know i'm probably leaving out some missing information please ask and i'll post it. I'm hoping to have the water temp around 80-84F. ALSO WILL BE ADDING PICS SOON. THE ONLY PLANTS IN ARE THE SWARF SAGS. Still waiting for the rest to come in by Wednesday or Thursday.
Added some notes to your plant list to help.

I wouldn't put rams in a fresh tank. They are very finicky fish and need stable water parameters and 80-82* temps to breed. Your fish list doesn't Co habitat very well. All pretty fish, that is a lot of breeding pairs for a 75g.

Typical scape guideline state reds in the foreground, and plant off center either to the right or left. Don't bunch when you plant the stems, or you will end up with bare lower stems. Get root tabs, you have some heavy root feeders on that list. You will need to dose kno3, k2so4, kh2p04, csm+b (micros) and fe if needed. I buy dry ferts from the plantedtank.net and make my own liquid solutions. Check out kcfishclub.org, great deals on there as well. If you didn't add a sump on your diy co2, that's why it exploded. Here was my set up before I went pressurized.


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Unread 2015-06-13, 11:51 PM   #17
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Unread 2016-01-31, 04:36 PM   #18
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update to the tank!
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Unread 2016-02-03, 10:21 PM   #19
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Damn how many neons do you have?
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Unread 2016-03-30, 06:03 PM   #20
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120 Cardinals
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Unread 2016-03-30, 07:32 PM   #21
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So you run this tank without a carbon doser? Just trust in the fermentation of the cultures ? Not worried about creating too much carbonic acid?
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Unread 2016-07-28, 03:13 PM   #22
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I would go to an under gravel filter with power heads and the twin double filters on the back... That mixed with a sponge filter in one corner will get you a crystal clear tank that only needs town completely down every 6 months for complete cleaning. 10% water changes every week or 30% once a month is what I always had best luck with on my own larger tanks. I know that people have gotten away from the undergravel filters but that is because they didn't want to tear down their tanks to clean them. It needs to be done at least twice a year anyways so I always use them. As long as you don't overfeed or over stock your tank you are more than fine.
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Unread 2016-07-28, 03:36 PM   #23
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Under gravel filters are terrible, people have gotten away from them because there are more efficient means to filtering a tank.

Properly set up canister or sump works much better. There is no need for a tank to be taken down every 6 months for a cleaning. No point in messing with your bacteria that's loaded up in the tank. I change the water in my 40b every 2 weeks if that. Only when the TDS and nitrates get high does it require a change.
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Unread 2016-07-28, 03:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalionStallion888 View Post
Under gravel filters are terrible, people have gotten away from them because there are more efficient means to filtering a tank.

Properly set up canister or sump works much better. There is no need for a tank to be taken down every 6 months for a cleaning. No point in messing with your bacteria that's loaded up in the tank. I change the water in my 40b every 2 weeks if that. Only when the TDS and nitrates get high does it require a change.
+1 they are detritus traps and cause excessive NO3 and DOC, they are severely outdated and servicing one in a planted tank is pretty much out of the question.

I am not sure where cloudy water is referenced but adding more bio filters with only help clear it up if its caused by bacterial blooms suspended in the water (milky look)

If its caused from yellowing compounds put out by the plants, algae and decaying organics, activated carbon would be the best solution.

I know some freshwater people used to run a diatomaceous earth filter for a few hours every once and a while to polish water, not sure if its a trend anymore though.

Us fellow reefkeepers sometimes use an ozone injection system that oxidizes organics and yellowing compounds too, doubt its use is feasible in freshwater but who knows?
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Unread 2016-07-28, 04:12 PM   #25
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I don't do water changes that often because my goal is to keep the tannins in the tank (brown coloration)

All that fish poo and leaf litter falls to my substrate and feeds the roots of my plants.

Carbon has a half life of about 14 days, then it's inert. Only really meant to strip medication from the tank. I have not ran carbon in my tanks for a good 3 years.

If you continually get bacterial blooms, ie cloudy water it's from messing with your substrate and kicking up all of the gunk giving the bacteria food causing it to multiply. I never ever touch my substrate. Ever.
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