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Unread 2013-09-07, 09:20 AM   #1
Sittinlow
 
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Default Installing subs and amp

Today I'm going to attempt to install some subs and an amp I just got. I've never had subs in my car. I do have an aftermarket head unit with the correct plugs for this installation. Now can anyone give me a step by step of this process?

I know I need to run a power from my battery to the truck for power and found a spot for a ground. There much be much more to this.
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Unread 2013-09-07, 11:32 AM   #2
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Power from the battery, ground from any metal surface, remote and signal wires from radio to amp, and speaker wires from amp to subs
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Unread 2013-09-07, 11:46 AM   #3
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May be an obvious thing, but I'll say it anyway just to make sure. Wherever your ground is, you want to make sure you clean it up real well. Make sure its good metal to contact with. I've seen many systems not work well or not at all because of it.

None of it is hard to do. Worst part is hiding all the wires.

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Unread 2013-09-07, 12:21 PM   #4
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Would you like to make some cash and install mine lol.
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Unread 2013-09-07, 12:34 PM   #5
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It's really not that hard dude. Buy a wiring install kit, they usually even come with instructions.
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Unread 2013-09-07, 12:50 PM   #6
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What he said. Its not hard. Pretty simple. Just takes some time, that's all. Use good connectors and make sure your ground is clean and solid. You want to use the same ground cable you use for power. That's about it. Not a big deal at all.

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Unread 2013-09-07, 01:29 PM   #7
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I bought the complete wiring package. So many wires, looks very overwhelming.
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Unread 2013-12-03, 01:03 AM   #8
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like they said, its not to terribly hard. assuming the kit you got is like every kit I've ever seen the wires are as follows:

Big Red One - Main power wire, usually about 17ft. long, goes from the battery terminal through your firewall (may have to make a hole) under the interior trim/carpet, and to the trunk. hardest part is pulling up the trim usually and I usually like to go down the driver side (where all my firewall holes are) connect it to the "12v" input on amplifier

Big Black One - usually about 2ft long main ground wire. like tslave said, make absolute certain you get a solid connection. like all circuits if you have high resistance (bad connection) you loose your overall performance. you can also get a whine if its really bad. connect it to the "Gnd" input on amplifier

Little blue one (may have white stripe)- very small gauge (16awg?) this is the remote wire. it goes to the back of the head unit/audio fuse to turn the amp on only when the car is on (or put it to a switch for using it when off). connect it to the "Rem" input on amplifier

Aux Cables - could be any color (has the weird red/white or black/white tips on the end) that plug into the back of the head unit. they tell the amp what music to actually play (sorta). the colors do not matter so long as you keep it the same throughout, electricity doesn't care about wire color. I.E. if you plug red into white at the head unit plug red into white at the amp. the head unit colors simply determine left/right. *DO NOT RUN THEM ON THE SAME SIDE AS YOUR POWER WIRE* you will get interference and whine

make sure you get the right size wires (power/ground) for your setup. to big is ok, to small is bad. if the wire is to small for the amount of wattage you need you will have high resistance causing the wires to heat, the amp to heat, and in the end still not get the power outputs you are looking for. you also need to make sure you get the right wiring setup for your subs. it is important to know if you have DVC or SVC subs, more than one sub, the ohm (resistance) of each sub/voice coil and if you are wiring in series/parallel. if you put the resistance of the subs to high your amp will not provide maximum output. if you put the resistance to low you will damage the amplifier.

if you have any questions HMU I do this on the side all the time. If you're looking to get into the game i'll be back in town in couple weeks and can do it for ya while showing you the ropes, lemme know =]
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Unread 2013-12-03, 09:10 AM   #9
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I tried this to install in my fit and now the left rear window doesn't work and I keep blowing the fuse on my amp. Any ideas?
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Unread 2013-12-03, 03:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstock1088 View Post
I tried this to install in my fit and now the left rear window doesn't work and I keep blowing the fuse on my amp. Any ideas?
You have a short somewhere. Power wire must go straight from battery to amp. Ground wire straight from metal to amp. Remote wire from head unit to amp. Signal wires from head unit to amp. Anywhere along the way, if there is a short for some reason, it would mess some stuff up, plus, it's a big fire hazard.


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Unread 2013-12-03, 04:26 PM   #11
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I kept my factory head unit so I tied into the speaker in the door. I will go back and re-check the connections
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Unread 2013-12-03, 04:28 PM   #12
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Where did you tap the speaker?

Also remember to wire the subs in parallel or series based on the correct ohm ratings, that could be causing the fuse to blow.

What kind of subs exactly (link?) and amp?
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Unread 2013-12-03, 07:39 PM   #13
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All of my speakers are in door panels so I tapped the speaker inside of the door.

I have an 8"mtx sub with an 800 watt pioneer. Honestly this car audio stuff is foreign to me.
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Unread 2013-12-03, 11:33 PM   #14
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PM me if you want a hand diagnosing it. I'm in Edgerton and have tons of spare time.

If the window doesn't work and the amp fuse is blowing, you probably tapped into one of the power window wires.
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Unread 2013-12-06, 12:57 AM   #15
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^ agreed


are the fuses just sorta "cut" in half I.E. a little break? ~ short to power
or
are the fuses completely demolished I.E. most of the inside is gone? ~ short to ground


does the window not roll up/down from both the driver and passenger? that'll narrow down the possible wires too.

what did you splice into the door speakers, AV wires is the only thing you should have spliced

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Unread 2013-12-06, 08:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cahilj View Post
PM me if you want a hand diagnosing it. I'm in Edgerton and have tons of spare time.

If the window doesn't work and the amp fuse is blowing, you probably tapped into one of the power window wires.

That would be awesome!

Quote:
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^ agreed


are the fuses just sorta "cut" in half I.E. a little break? ~ short to power
or
are the fuses completely demolished I.E. most of the inside is gone? ~ short to ground


does the window not roll up/down from both the driver and passenger? that'll narrow down the possible wires too.

what did you splice into the door speakers, AV wires is the only thing you should have spliced
I will check this afternoon on whet the fuse looks like. The window does not roll down from the master switch or the read door. And I thought I had to tie the system into the speakers right?
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Unread 2013-12-06, 04:02 PM   #17
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if you have a stock headunit then the only thing you need to get is the av input (usually red/white) from the oem door speakers. its possible you pinched the wires to window when messing around inside the door, if you went clear to the speaker itself for signal. on oem systems I like to go to the back of the head unit still cuz its easier to tell exactly what wires you want.
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Unread 2013-12-21, 01:52 AM   #18
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Ever get anywhere with this?
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Unread 2013-12-21, 12:01 PM   #19
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Sorry guys I move out of country in nine days, I'll be gone for seven months. I have had no time or motivation to work on my car LOL
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