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Unread 2017-12-21, 12:48 PM   #101
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12/21: Oh Christmas comes but once a year

It's a damn Christmas miracle; car is out of media and back in the shop.

I'll snap photos tonight after work.

I am excited. Now the fun can begin.
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Unread 2017-12-22, 03:45 PM   #102
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12/22: Update

Stopped by the shop and took a few photos.

I'm pretty happy with how it came back from the media shop. The car came back with literally zero media-burn and zero damage as the photos will show you.

The trunk came back with only two areas that warrant patch work. A full trunk replacement is not required. I am a bit disappointed with the level of detail that went in to the trunk media blast but I got a good deal so I can't be too upset. The lack of rot back there and the fact I don't need a trunk replacement is a giant plus and money saver.

I'm content with the interior. Again, I'm a little disappointed with the lack of detail but the seal sealer that remains is not silicon. It's actually urethane and can be painted over so the fact it was not removed during the blast is not a big deal.

The firewall / cowl area came out as acceptable. Again, some seam sealer remains which is somewhat unfortunate. The drivers side cowl area had been damaged in an accident back in the 70s. I still have to decide if I want that portion replaced or just hammered out. If I have it hammmered out I'll have a body guy lay some fiberglass on it to make it as smooth as possible.

































































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Unread 2017-12-26, 10:21 AM   #103
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12/26: Update

On the list for this and next week:

1.) Weld in the heater core/blower motor fill panel from Detroit Speed
2.) Patch all holes, drill holes, all rot in trunk
3.) Cut the new transmission tunnel for an Ls7 / T56 combo using the Holley T56 Hump panel and Detroit Speed LS Motor mounts
4.) Prime and paint the two small sections of floorpan above the front sub frame rails (since the paint guy wonít be able to get to them)
5.) Mount the new Detroit Speed front sub frame (use the 4 pro-touring F-Body chassis mounts in their highest setting)
6.) Install Detroit Speed sub-frame connectors
7.) Re-install rear suspension
8.) Spray all sandblasted areas with SPI Epoxy primer (wash and wipe off all media blasted surfaces with Eastwood's 'After Blast'
9.) Wire-wheel firewall to remove the last bit of paint/under-coating to prep for primer
10.) Pound-out and smooth the damaged driverís side cowl area
11.) Patch/smooth emergency brake-cable hole in floorpan
12.) Remove all exhaust hangers, brake line clips/clamps and plug and weld smooth
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Unread 2017-12-27, 02:55 PM   #104
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I can't see pics on PC or Mobile.
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Unread 2017-12-27, 03:17 PM   #105
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I can see all the 12/22 pics
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Unread 2017-12-28, 09:41 AM   #106
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Quote:
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I can't see pics on PC or Mobile.
Sorry about that. I'm still using a stupid photo bucket account.

What's another free and good photo hosting option?
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Unread 2018-01-08, 09:37 AM   #107
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1/5: Update

Ordered paint supplies. Should be here this week.

Edit: Delivered.
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Unread 2018-01-11, 01:09 PM   #108
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1/10: Update

Installed the Detroit Speed firewall A/C delete panel and Holley T56 Hump panel. Next up is patching the trunk.

Paint shop is stopping by tomorrow for an estimate to put everything in PPG.

I'll try and find another image hosting site since photo bucket is a joke now.
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Unread 2018-01-15, 05:43 PM   #109
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1/15: Update

Stopped by the shop today. Finishing up a bit of welding then laying seam-sealer down (today and tomorrow). Dropping it off to the paint shop for PPG later this week.

I priced out 3 gallons of Lizard Skin Thermal and 3 gallons of Lizard Skin Sound to spray on top of the primer in the interior pans. Damn that stuff is pricey. Roughly $400 for supplied alone. I might hold off having them shoot it this go-round. Lizard Skin was somewhat of an afterthought; we'll see.











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Unread 2018-01-17, 09:24 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by so.DOPE View Post
1/15: UpdateI priced out 3 gallons of Lizard Skin Thermal and 3 gallons of Lizard Skin Sound to spray on top of the primer in the interior pans. Damn that stuff is pricey. Roughly $400 for supplied alone. I might hold off having them shoot it this go-round. Lizard Skin was somewhat of an afterthought; we'll see.
I can't comment on the effectiveness of the product you're referring to, but I have used products like dynamat in the past and I would highly recommend some sort of insulation to dampen NVH. I used to not care about that stuff when I was younger, but as I get older, it's a lot more important to me. If you want to be able to enjoy the car for long drives, do something rather than nothing.
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Unread 2018-01-19, 11:45 AM   #111
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I can't comment on the effectiveness of the product you're referring to, but I have used products like dynamat in the past and I would highly recommend some sort of insulation to dampen NVH. I used to not care about that stuff when I was younger, but as I get older, it's a lot more important to me. If you want to be able to enjoy the car for long drives, do something rather than nothing.
I’ve got build threads up on lateral-g and pro-touring (.com).

Lots of guys say to go the dynamat or boost-mat route.

It’s pricey regardless of how you go about it really.
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Unread 2018-02-02, 02:02 PM   #112
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https://i.imgur.com/TMQmK0q.jpg
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Unread 2018-02-02, 03:14 PM   #113
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I can't remember, did you figure out wiring for it yet?
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Unread 2018-02-02, 05:02 PM   #114
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Are you going to do the original paint scheme?
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Unread 2018-02-02, 06:51 PM   #115
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Wiring is pretty far down the road at this point. I’m still focused on just getting it home and then beginning the brake system. Brakes are next in my list.

As far as who is wiring it...I think I’m going to attempt to handle that all myself. Lots of research to do.

As far as paint goes, that’s the last thing in my to do list so provably 5-7 years away if my math is right. I still plan on getting the rear fenders stretched out 2 inches with custom aero work.

In terms of color...something a shade darker than what it was with the same blue bird decales
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Unread 2018-02-03, 06:16 PM   #116
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I haven’t seen the car with all four wheels on in over five months. You can imagine my excitement and smile when I walked in to the shop and saw this:



I took a bunch of photos. Every square inch of the undercarriage, firewall, trunk and interior was blasted, primed and painted. The firewall work, sub frame, rear suspension all hung. I couldn’t be happier.








































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Unread 2018-02-03, 06:22 PM   #117
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Next up, brakes and fuel.


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Unread 2018-04-25, 12:19 PM   #118
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4/25: Time to take a break

Long time no update.

Haven't posted much other than a few "For Sale" threads here and there in an attempt to off-load a few original parts.

That said, much of the time I've committed to this project as of late has been absorbed in research, planning, designing and acquiring the major aspects of my car's braking system.

When approaching the task of getting a big powered car to stop effectively people often buy a parts from different manufacturers that once assembled fail to function as anticipated. Eventually they end up re-purchasing different components because the parts they initially had were mismatched. This inevitably leads to greater costs and problems that plague the build.

I'm trying to avoid this from the get go and wanted to work out the process for selecting the correct parts the first time knowing I have the luxury (or rather the problem of starting from scratch (no brake system at all)).

It's obvious that one needs to set goals, a timeline and a budget as is everything in life. I have. However, it's also important to decide early on (in regards to your braking system at least) if you're going manual or vacuum assist (power) brakes.

My plan is simple in that I'm going in to this knowing I desire a fully manual driving experience. I require as much 'driver feel' as possible. As such I've elected to spring for manual steering, no heat, no A/C, no driver aids, a Tranzilla T56 and a manual braking system (no power brakes, no ABS, etc.)

The first and possibly most important question is whether a fella needs or should have power brakes, and that's not one that can be easily answered. In general, manual brakes will provide the most positive feedback to the driver and highest level of control, however it comes at the price of a longer pedal throw and higher pedal effort. Power brakes will require less pedal effort and less pedal travel.

To address initial pedal ratio questions, let's assume 6:1 (2nd Gens' = 6.25 stock. I have purchased Wilwoods adjustable clutch and pedal assembly with 4" +/- of adjustment) for manual calculations and ~ 4:1 for vacuum assist for most GM muscle applications. For the most part, pedal ratio is far less adjustable or easy to change than are master cylinder bore size, booster size/configuration, etc.

For a factory 2nd Gen, the brake pedal is 12.5" long, the pivot to manual brake clevis hole is 2", the power brake clevis hole is 3.25".
Ratio Breakdown:
6.25:1 Manual
3.80:1 Power
2nd Gen ratios changed in 1978. 67' - 77' are the same from the factory

Important notes moving forward:
David Pozzi stated that for "Blue Ballz", a 14" rotor was used but clearing any wheel with a 14" rotor becomes a major hurdle. "The 14" rotor can lessen pedal effort which will be considered high to most on a 13" manual system. Any manual system must be well engineered or the pedal effort/stroke will be unsatisfactory. Both stroke and pedal effort will be higher than a power brake system. Manual systems are more sensitive to knock back; and twice as sensitive as power brakes. A power brake system has half the pedal travel due to the pedal ratio & boost. (It also) has less sensitivity to the bore sizes being slightly off, but you have less feel for preventing lockup. Hydroboost is probably the worst for feel." - David Pozzi.

Tobin of KORE3,
"As for master cylinder sizing, no, manual and power brake systems will not typically use the same size master cylinder for a given caliper combination. Manual systems will use smaller bore master cylinders, where a smaller bore MC = higher output pressure and less volume per inch of stroke and a larger bore MC = lower output pressure and greater volume per inch of stroke. Using a 1" bore MC as the baseline, I've included some information below for you showing the relative difference in output pressure between MC bore sizes for reference, keep in mind that the pedal travel will change by the same amount.

⌀1.125" bore -> A=.994 square inches [-26.6%]
⌀1.063" bore -> A=.886 square inches [-12.9%]
⌀1.031" bore -> A=.835 square inches [-6.4%]
⌀1.000" bore -> A=.785 square inches [BASELINE]
⌀0.938" bore -> A=.690 square inches [+12.1%]
⌀0.875" bore -> A=.601 square inches [+23.4%]
⌀0.813" bore -> A=.519 square inches [+33.9%]
⌀0.750" bore -> A=.442 square inches [+43.8%]


Platform: 1976 Trans Am

Application – Auto-x, Track Day, Street (in that order of importance though total mileage may favor the latter)

Estimated completed weight - ~ 3250#

Rear Tire/Wheel – 335 x 18, 220 UTQG (possible Alternate tire Hoosier A6)

Front Tire/Wheel – 315 x 18, 220 UTQG (possible Alternate tire Hoosier A6)

Rear Suspension – Ladder Bars with a pan-hard bar. 9 inch Strange Axle

Front Suspension – Detroit Speed 2nd Gen font subframe with GM disk brake spindles
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Unread 2018-04-25, 12:38 PM   #119
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Things to settle/decide/finalize:
A. Get clear on intended use -
Auto-X, Track & Street

B. Get clear on tires being used for an idea of grip -
315/335 Hoosier A6's for the track

C. Spring rates -
Fully adjustable but for the sake of argument 600#F & 300#R

D. Spring motion ratios (Squared) -
Front MR is .54. So squared it is .2916 x 600# front springs = 175# of wheel rate.

E. Decide how much total braking force we want -
A good rule of thumb for braking force is:
2500# = Average passenger car
3000# = Performance production car
3500# = Good street & track braking system
4000# = Track braking system with good tires
4500-5500# = Full race brake systems
This is just a guideline as it's a little broad and there are variables.

Most people don't take into account the suspension set-up when selecting brakes, but in AutoX & Track Cars, it is an important factor. The guideline above is good for conventional suspension cars with stiff springs & moderate sway bars. When running a soft spring/big bar strategy front suspension for high travel & low roll angle, use less brake & frankly less braking force or the car will become edgy.

With the tire/wheel combo I'm running; I'm targeting somewhere in the range of 3400-3700# total braking force.


F. Pick calipers, pads & rotor size with front-to-rear braking bias in mind -
You can run much more total braking force with slicks. People often carry two different pads depending on their driving environment. A more aggressive brake pad (higher CoF) for track days vs. a pad with a lower CoF for spirited street evenings. I'll swap to the higher CoF pads when running slicks during track days. 4000-4300# total braking force is my personal goal with the slick set up.
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Unread 2018-04-25, 12:51 PM   #120
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Things to settle/decide/finalize:
F. Pick calipers, pads & rotor size with front-to-rear braking bias in mind -
Rotor size is another variable to discuss in greater depth (I'll cover that in a post below).

Keep in mind that everything below is speaking in terms of a manual brake system:

Calculations via Ron Sutton:

The chart below outlines one brake system that is pretty balanced right from the get go, by using calipers with the correct piston area front to back. Using two of the same size master cylinders, or a dual master cylinder with same size piston, creates a system that has a F/R brake bias of 67/33. Some guys shoot for 65/35. As enthusiasts’ track their cars, they prefer less rear brake bias; most ending up around 67/33 to 70/30 with conventional set-ups. Each chart has minor variances in terms of proportioning valve rate and the brake pad.

The first chart on the TOP shows the system with no proportioning adjustment. This provides 1222# of rear braking force, 2458# of front braking force & 3681# of total braking force with a 67/33 bias.

The middle chart shows the same system but adjusted to a 70/30 bias with the proportioning valve. You'll notice the front braking force stays the same & the rear reduces. This provides a total braking force of 3512#.

The BOTTOM chart is assuming a different race pad. I changed the brake pads from a "street performance" type BP-20 pad to a more aggressive pad known as Wilwoods' "B"; a track inspired compound. The CoF (Coefficient of Friction) is higher, jumping the braking force up ~ 25%. You can see the numbers are 4569# total braking force with no proportioning adjustment ... and 4354# when adjusted to a 70/30 bias. This would be a mean braking system for slicks, but simply lock up all four wheels too easily with treaded tires.

A few things to note:
#1 - I have spec'ed the same pads front & rear, but they have different CoF numbers ... because the front & rear operate at different temperatures when balanced correctly.

#2 - The front caliper is an awesome Wilwood design called the AeroLite. It has great body mass where needed, light where it can be & 5 large bridge bolts to reduce caliper bowing. In short, it is a very good caliper. However it's pricey and there are cheaper alternatives that could get the job done.

#3 - All of this assumes a 100# leg force (kind of a standard), 6-1 pedal ratio, 7/8" M/C & NO Booster. The ratio doesn't really matter to me in the long run because I have the freedom to mount the pedal assembly anywhere on the firewall I desire. It's also fully adjustable so there's added flexibility there.
Note: Just to clarify, the 7/8" is referring to the M/C's bore size.









I don't know if these charts are showing up or not on your screen. They show up on my phone but not my work computer.
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Unread 2018-04-25, 12:53 PM   #121
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Unread 2018-04-25, 12:55 PM   #122
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Unread 2018-04-25, 01:12 PM   #123
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Love the updates.
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Unread 2018-04-25, 02:07 PM   #124
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Spencer Davis Group - Blues in F
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Unread 2018-07-02, 02:08 PM   #125
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7/2: Update



Not much to mention in regards to the project. I had planned on finishing up the brake set up this summer/fall but life has other plans. Long story short; but an opportunity opened up in Phoenix and I'll be putting the house up for sale next spring. It's not the best timing in the world but whatever.

All this means for the car...is assembling it to a point where I have less individual parts to transport/ship.

In addition to wrapping up a few house projects, my plan is to get the doors re-hung, get the trunk back on, get the drivers side jamb section repaired and get the rear glass set back in. I'll order up a new core support and install that in the fall just because I want a new one. But that's really all I'm doing until I get set up again in AZ. Lot's of crap to pack up.

Car has been in storage all winter. Pulled it out to take some measurements for a few things. Also took some updated photos for the insurance company. Bumped coverage up to $55k since I'll be paying a company to transport the bitch across the country.

Here are those pics:















In preparation for the move a few buddies and I finished my basement. It's nice when your friends are contractors and work for pennies on the dollar.









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Spencer Davis Group - Blues in F

Last edited by so.DOPE; 2018-07-02 at 02:28 PM..
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